Tuesday, January 14, 2014

BEAUTY: Clothing--Misc. Milano Moda Uomo

Well, Milano Moda Uomo has wrapped and I must say that taken as a whole, there was not much bang for the buck. There were certainly some pleasant enough collections from brands such as Emporio Armani, Gucci, and Canali, all of whom showed lovely, well-tailored pieces in expected luxurious fabrics. And there were some collections that were fairly uninspired (Prada, Jil Sander). There was even a border-line offensive collection: Dsquared's penitentiary themed collection because, apparently in the minds of the Caten brothers, nothing says artistry and clothing like the prison system in the United States.

Here are a few miscellaneous stand out moments worth a mention or a photo or two...

MSGM showed what might end up being the Hundredth Monkey element: text and portrait graphics (we have seen McQueen use the photos of John Deakin, Antonio Marass use images of his father from the 1950s, and Andrea Pompilio use antique photos by Eadweard Muybridge). I like the hand-written scrawl of the words coupled with the digitally manipulated portraits.

I like the reference to vintage flight suits at Bottega Veneta. The slim silhouette, and ribbed cuffed bottoms of jackets and trousers feel military...

Iceberg had a great little motif that was not explored enough: a black and white glen plaid on trousers, pullovers, and coats was interrupted by a digital smear... a glitch in the Matrix...

And Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti who are collectively known as Frankie Morello showed some humorous, space-themed shirts (a shot of Dave Bowman played by Keir Dullea in Kubrick's iconic "2001: A Space Odyssey" and a Renaissance Madonna and Child painting with an astronaut standing in for Mary!)... and a "Batman style" cap!

Let's hope that things pick up in Paris. Fashion Week there starts tomorrow.


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