Friday, June 27, 2014
BEAUTY: Clothing--Haider Ackermann
This Spring Summer '15 menswear collection is only Haider Ackermann's third but we again see a gloriously loose, unkempt, slouchy silhouette. But unlike last season's English Dandys or French Symbolist poets, this season's inspiration was revealed to be Keith Richards! And Ackermann's vision was tweaked just enough to reflect a kind of decadent, louche, languor. Ackermann recently attended a Rolling Stones concert and said, "They're not my generation, but their energy was beyond fantastic. Keith took my scarf and wrapped it around his waist. There was just a natural decadence." He caught Richards' disheveled, whatever-is-at-hand uniform but interpreted it in his usual sumptuous silks, satins, and brocades. I adore the dropped crotch trousers, and the layering of texture and pattern. It still feels a bit like a Dandy or a Symbolist poet, despite the rock n' roll overtones. Just like Yamamoto, Ackermann can't help but make a collection that is romantic...