Wednesday, June 18, 2014

BEAUTY: Clothing--Sibling

The trio of designers who make up Sibling--Joe Bates, Sid Bryan, and Cozette McCreery--used a photograph from Derek Ridgers' photo documentary book 78-87 LONDON YOUTH as a spark for their Spring/Summer '15 collection just shown at London Collections: Men. It shows a young Goth/Rocker woman named Jessica at the legendary Wag Club (the setting for Bowie's "Blue Jean" video) in London in 1983; she sports a voluminous, grown-out pompadour that looks like a horse tail. This long-haired element made its way into nearly every piece in the collection, showing up in shaggy tops, pants and headpieces. Jessica's jeans and jacket in the photo were reinterpreted by Sibling into something they are calling "scarified denim" (the cotton is repeatedly perforated in a pattern). Bone necklaces are a nod to another British fashion force, Dame Vivienne Westwood, who used bones on a tee shirt sold at her boutique Let It Rock circa 1971. The ferociousness of the look is balanced, in a brilliantly quirky way, by the knitwear of the collection. Sibling are dedicated to knit in all its forms and here we see a spiral design in an old crochet technique from a vintage issue of "Reader's Digest," as well as a special pointed knitwear that looks like little spikes raising from the garment.


Here is the Derek Ridgers' inspiration photo...


But specifically because of the knitwear covering the faces of some of the models, as well as the enormous, teased, horse-tail mohawks, I personally see a lot more influence from the early 80s band Sigue Sigue Sputnik whose look was designed and styled by outrageous lead singer Martin Degville. One of his signature looks was fishnet stretched over his face topped by brightly colored manes...


http://www.siblinglondon.com/

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