Friday, January 23, 2015
BEAUTY: Clothing--Dries Van Noten
One can rest assured that a Dries Van Noten show is going to be textured, layered, and interesting with some kind of intricate, maybe-ethnic patterns. And this collection, while a little more muted (it is for Fall-Winter '15, after all), provided all the interest expected. Van Noten's collections for me are always a bit like opening up the attic trunks of someone who has traveled the globe and brought back textiles, rugs, trinkets, baskets, and, of course, clothing, from far-flung, exotic locations. For his Paris Fashion Week show, he played with inspiration from the Miao people of southern China which includes the Hmong people whose striking textiles mix geometric blocks with rich embroidery (like the gorgeous coat in the last image of the last row). You can see the Asian influence in the boxy-cut, quilted jackets, some of which flare out at the hem, a hallmark of outerwear from southern China. Something that is not Asian but seems to fall into place with this silhouette is the idea of a kilt or wrap which looks natural and pleasing below the Asian sensibility of the jackets. And Van Noten's dark color palette emphasizes the subtle detail and pattern of the fabrics. It may not be splashy, or wear a bold theme but it is masterful nonetheless. These are wearable pieces that are still unique, and in a way, a bit avant garde. Lovely work...
Here are some examples of Hmong textiles...