Sunday, July 19, 2015

BEAUTY: Clothing--Alexandre Plokhov

If Rick Owens created sports wear, he might create a collection that looks a lot like Alexandre Plokhov's 2016 Spring Summer offering at New York Fashion Week.

Plokhov himself has a fascinating background. Born in Russia, he was trained as an interpreter and served in the Russian Strategic Missile Troops. Interested in design, he moved to the United States in the mid 1990s and worked as a pattern maker for Marc Jacobs before starting the men's clothing label Cloak in 2000. The label folded in 2007 and Plohkov joined Versace for six seasons. But then he launched his own line in 2011 under his own name. In addition to this line, he is also now Creative Director at Helmut Lang--he's a busy man.

He tends toward pared down, minimalist, gothic/architectural forms in black, white, or neutrals. But this collection saw him delve into actual color: red and olive! To account for the sudden change in paradigm, Plokhov said he read the novel THE MONGOLIAD, which is set in an alternate world during the time of the Mongol invasion of Europe where warring clans are marked out by the colors they wear. His fascinating collection feels savage and aggressive in a kind of futuristic way, if that makes any sense.

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