Tuesday, January 12, 2016

BEAUTY: Clothing--Misc. London Collections: Men

Here are some miscellaneous details from London Collections: Men for Fall-Winter '16-'17.

Of course we're all still reeling from the death of David Bowie--I keep going back to the headline with that familiar, twisting, "this-can't-be-true" feeling in my stomach. His influence was felt not only in music but in fashion and art. The news broke as the final day of LC:M got underway and Burberry, in an impromptu tribute, played his music before and after the show while models sported glitter on their faces.

Bowie was the direct and indirect inspiration for a huge number of collections and designers have found his ever-changing personas to be fertile ground for their own ever-changing artistic expressions. It seems as if at least one collection a season cites Bowie in some form. And at LC:M, Katie Eary showed a collection that was based upon the book THE SACRED TRIANGLE which examines the creative exchange between Bowie, Lou Reed, and Iggy Pop. Her collection was a bit of all three with some glam rock (Bowie), art rock (Reed), and rock and roll (Pop). The fur jacket is a nod to glam and the silver lamé lace-up trousers are pure Pop.

It seems the Hundredth Monkey moment for the week was the monster shoe...the platform creeper shoe which harkens back the early rock n' roll scene of the 1950s and Teddy Boys, to a Rockabilly or Goth moment in the 80s, and then Manhattan Club Kids in the 90s.

Nasir Mazhar showed a thick soled black shoe with a silver "grill" detail...

...while Charles Jeffrey at the MAN show staged a full-on Club Kid revival...

...and finally, father-son team Casely-Hayford showed some fairly straight-forward platforms.

We shall see if the monster shoe trend continues in Milan and Paris over the next few weeks. And speaking of shoes, Christian Louboutin created some incredible riding boots in multi-colored Lurex for James Long. Oh, how I want that last pair.

Lastly, kudos to Oliver Spencer for using mature and unconventional models. Nice to see a bit of grey hair on the runway.


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