Wednesday, June 15, 2016
BEAUTY: Clothing--Aitor Throup
Aitor Throup's design house, A.T. Studio collaborates across multiple industries and develops the conceptual clothing brand New Object Research. The studio's mission statement says, "Both the studio and the brand are committed to imagining and creating new ways of telling stories through object design and the creation and production of related materials." And for his debut collection at London Collections: Men, Throup created a mystical, theatrical presentation that was a mash-up of a catwalk show, a lookbook, and a performance art piece called "The Rite of Spring/Summer/Autumn/Winter." At the start of the show which took place at a deconsecrated church in Marlybone, a white box was raised to reveal the form of a human crumpled on the ground. Puppet designer and engineer James Perowne along with his team of puppeteers approached and, after taking hold of attached rods, made this crumpled heap come to life. Each human form that came out on the runway was created from a mold of Throup's own body. At the end of the show, curtains were drawn back to reveal the puppets and outfits hung from the ceiling in front of the church's stained glass windows. The outfits were small in number but the impact of their presentation made them seem enormous.