Wednesday, June 22, 2016
BEAUTY: Clothing--Helen Anthony
Helen Anthony--a bespoke menswear brand named after one certain Anthony and his great-grandmother Helen who taught him tailoring from a young age--is a rising star on Savile Row. Anthony presented his first ready-to-wear collection last year and this newest collection for Spring Summer '17 at Milano Moda Uomo proved to be a sartorial spectacle. Divided into three sections with a recap epilogue, the collection shows a move toward intricate prints and ornate design. The first section, clearly inspired by Renaissance cathedrals and their accompanying stained glass and art, was a kaleidoscopic statement, at times almost worthy of Escher. The second section, full of dark velvet embroidered with Byzantine scroll work and designs is a bit of a puzzle. Models wore dark metallic make-up on their faces. Perhaps this is to evoke the idea of statuary? The third section took the idea of the embroidered garments into what feels like the 1970s, followed by a modern reinterpretation of the cathedral motif featuring a jacket and tunic top with images of Christ that look as if they came right from a modern, Brutalist church circa 1972.