Wednesday, January 17, 2018
BEAUTY: Clothing--Giorgio Armani
What a lovely Fall-Winter '18-'19 collection Giorgio Armani presented at Milano Moda Uomo. As I said earlier in another post for Armani Exchange, Giorgio Armani has nothing to prove. At 83 years old, he has been a successful designer for nearly half a century, with a a personal fortune of $8.1 billion as of 2017. And while I am sure he alone does not design each and every single garment (even young designers have a team of people to flesh out ideas), his fingerprint continues to be evident. Clean lined and impeccably tailored, Armani's sensibility is about luxe fabrics and the way a garment hangs. And while such attention to tailoring can--and usually does in the hands of Armani--invoke a timeless sense with clothing feeling like they could come from different eras, this stunning collection specifically references a kind of by-gone, romanticized masculinity from World War I soldiers and World War II air pilots to Edwardian Polar explorers to a kind of Gatsby-esque, masterful ease (tuxedos with swoon-worthy shawl collars!). Please click on the photos to study each look--each one might seem simple at first glance, but notice the cuts and details, all in fine wool, cashmere, silk, leather, (faux) shearling, velvet, and jacquard. Notice the size of lapels and the stance (button placement) of a jacket, notice the pocket placement, notice the width of trousers, and notice the volume of overcoats. And just take a gander at the gorgeous combat boots (both calf and ankle height!) and shoes that appear to have spats. Spats! It all appeals to my love of historical references in clothing.