Sarah Mower at Vogue called Raf Simons' SS '19 collection "the moment the backlash against streetwear became an inevitability." Amen to that sister. Simons even said, "We need a new outline. I know I was part of it myself, but too many hoodies with prints! You know, something needs to shift." The centerpiece of his collection was hard-to-work-with duchesse satin in 70's-Saint-Laurent jewel tones rendered in large, boxy coats (or Lurex sweaters) worn with spectacular platform boots. Love!
Lucio Vanotti showed some great, simple, wrap skirts. I love how these look...and sometimes I am so tempted to just go to the women's section when I'm shopping...but I don't think anything will fit me.
John Galliano presented an ambitious collection meant to bring impeccable dressmaking to menswear in terms of bias cuts and methods of production. I liked the idea and there were many pieces that were of interest but what really stood out for me were the shoes, again. He showed the clove-toed shoe from FW '18-'19 but also some new creations, all in the spirit of hybridization that the house is known for. Japanese kimono fabrics were made into chunky sneakers and cowboy boots, while another pair of cowboy boots were made from baby blue patent leather. A pair of conventional lace-ups sported a thick ankle strap. This is creativity.
Lastly, Alexandre Mattiussi of Ami presented a show that was just enchanting. While the pieces themselves were quite ordinary--the sense of it was a casual, dressed down holiday--the lyrical, pastoral setting was comforting and lulling...models wandered through fog, and down a wheat field on a hillside. *sigh*