Tuesday, January 7, 2020

BEAUTY: Clothing--John Alexander Skelton

At London Fashion Week Men's, John Alexander Skelton's Fall Winter '20-'21 collection was shown in a dramatic presentation instead of a traditional runway show. Much like Vivienne Westwood, his collections are based on research into English heritage and folklore, and the traditions of textiles and manufacturing industries. Working closely with weavers and mills across England, Skelton creates handcrafted silhouettes that draw reference from 19th-century menswear such as frock coats and high-waisted trousers. Treatments like hand-dying, hand washing and patching are recurrent features in his collections, lending a romanticism to his work which I just love.

But this collection at the Zabludowicz Collection in Kentish Town was special: with the pieces on mannequins hidden beneath white sheets, each look was revealed while the play “Under Milk Wood"--a 1954 radio drama by Welsh poet Dylan Thomas, commissioned by the BBC and later adapted for the stage--was recited. As the narrator progressed, he uncovered one mannequin after another, lifted them, whirled around, and placed them one by one.

“It is a poem that I have been obsessed with for a really long time and I had wanted to work it into [my collection] because I love it so much and I listen to it as I would listen to music I suppose,” Skelton said.

The designer said he was interested in how creative, artistic people like Richard Burton, who voiced the poem for BBC, and artists Lucian Freud and Francis Bacon distinguished themselves via ordinary clothes.

“Dylan Thomas was really famous for being very scruffy and he would wear these kinds of thick knotted artists necktie, which was one of his sister’s scarves or something. That is one of my interests looking into how you can create something interesting out of something very banal and how the artists set themselves apart from the rest of society,” he said.

I had to spend some time eyeing this collection to fully appreciate it. I urge you to click on the pictures here. Look at the cuts, the high stance of the jackets, the multiple buttons, the rich patterns and texture, and a glorious, overall near-swashbuckling sense. It's a truly lovely collection.


https://www.johnalexanderskelton.com/

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