Monday, June 29, 2015

BEAUTY: Clothing--Misc. Paris Fashion Week SS '16

Fashion season is over. There were some interesting shows in London, Milan, and Paris, but overall the season as a whole felt a bit lackluster. Too many collections shown were just versions of hip-hop, streetwear, or basketball clothing. Ho hum.

Here are some miscellaneous details from Paris Fashion Week.

At Haider Ackermann it was all about the waist with obi-like sashes and high-riding belts worn on the outside of jackets. Of course Thom Browne trumped this with his literal geisha outfits seen here!

In an interesting Hundredth Monkey moment, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino showed the kind of sateen Japanese tour jackets GIs brought back from Asia after WWII...just as we saw Kim Jones do at Vuitton here!

AND Christian Dada designer Masanori Morikawa decided to show the exact same detail--embroidered tigers and cranes along with the flags of Japan and Korea--on sateen jackets as well as leather motorcycle jackets...the collection was inspired by Marlon Brando in "The Wild One." These elements showed up on shirts and trousers too!

Perhaps the most startling shoe of the season came from this Christian Dada collection: are you sitting down? A FEATHERED ENGINEER BOOT! The classic motorcycle boot is here covered with guinea fowl, and multicolored well as an all-black version. It IS a black leather motorcycle boot, after all...

And before we leave the 50s Asian souvenir jacket motif, Saint Laurent slipped one in during a collection of grunge-glam-rock based on Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love... did Masaharuyashiro with embroidered palm trees, a wolf head and various crests.

Kolor showed a whimsical shoe: a mash-up of a hiking boot and a sandal! Love it! (It shares thematic territory with Balmain's lace-up desert boot, seen here.)

Finally, Julien David showed a whimsical idea that coincidentally crossed my mind the other day. I was trying to think of something new for a collection or a fabric, and as I took a shirt out of my closet, disappointed at some wrinkles it accrued while hanging, I realized that a way to avoid such disappointment is to pre-wrinkle the fabric. Go for it, do it up good. Wrinkle the hell out of it. That way, no one will see "wrinkles." David used a wool suiting material that was forcibly wrinkled twice to make sure it retains its form!

We now return to our regularly scheduled program...

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