Wednesday, January 20, 2016
The work of twins Dean and Dan Caten has been hit or miss...with their obsession to denim and sportswear, so often the collections end up feeling a little trashy, a little "suburban shopping mall." They have an interesting moment every now and then, like their "Nouvelle Noir"/Tuskeegee Airmen/Cotton Club collection (seen here), but such highlights can be balanced out by such bombs as their offensive penitentiary themed showed (which can be seen nowhere on this site). So it is nice to see them reach--half way--out of their comfort zone and explore something different. For this Milano Moda Uomo collection for FW '16-'17, they found common ground between the UK and Japan...and what might that common ground be? The pleat. The same one that is on a pair of Samurai pants as well as on a Scottish kilt. It is an intriguing idea to compare and contrast sartorial silhouettes from such disparate cultures, but somehow it works. I like the wide flowing Judo pants contrasted with the shape of the kilt. East and West never totally blend here (the tartan kilts naturally morph into an homage to the classic tartan bondage pant made famous by Vivienne Westwood), but that is okay. The fusion is dynamic.