Thursday, January 21, 2016

BEAUTY: Clothing--Misc. Milano Moda Uomo

Here are a few interesting highlights and elements of note from Milano Moda Uomo FW '16-'17 shows.

Inspired by a forward-fashion element from the street, incorporated into the lexicon by Rick Owens and others, the extra long sleeve shows up with more regularity these days. Damir Doma used the idea extensively for his show which was staged on an actual platform at the Milan train station. I wonder what it is about a long trailing sleeve? What does it say psychologically? The extra long leg and bell bottoms of the 70s said "I am a creature with long legs, I can walk, I can MOVE, I can stride quickly, I am confident" which makes sense since the 70s were all about liberation and new-found freedom on many levels. And by contrast, the current fetish amongst a certain kind of young man to wear sagging pants or jeans so that they bunch up around the knees and feet, effectively hobbling the wearer, oddly says, "I have a long torso but short squat legs like the silhouette of a baby, I can't move quickly, I am stationary." This one has puzzled me for a while. I can't quite pathologize the desire to present oneself like that or the advantage of appearing like that. But I have a feeling that the psychological ramification of hiding hands has more to do with a feeling of being cocooned, of hiding, of pulling into one's shell. And here we have this concept again, of feeling safe, much like the child-like plush toy fur motif at Fendi seen here.

Calvin Klein Collection created an amusing image based on worn denim. Instead of the wear, whiskering, and rips being actually present, head of menswear at Calvin Klein Italo Zucchelli placed them as foiled graphics on white denim! I love this idea. Not only is it clever, but for a winter collection, it also references the white and sparkle of snow (along with some other fun metallic elements that cropped up in the collection like the cummerbunds below).

And finally, Ferragamo showed some fun shoes that were based on a pair of Ferragamos worn by famed Pop artist Andy Warhol. He used them to paint in and the pair were acquired by the house after Warhol's death. The oxfords in this FW '16-'17 collection are spattered with a bit of paint here and there...

...and Ferragamo also showed some amazing, super-chunky tortoise shell sunglasses. LOVE these.

On to Paris...

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