Saturday, February 26, 2022

BEAUTY: Clothing--Gucci

The last time I posted a Gucci show was their performance art presentation in an operating room, here. I like what Alessandro Michele has done for and at Gucci (its second revival after Tom Ford rescued it once before in the 90s), but...well, I don't know why I don't post about their shows more often. It's not that I don't like what he creates...it just feels, I don't know, more of the same. But I hasten to add "the same" is interesting.

So this Fall-Winter '22-'23 collection at Milan Fashion Week feels like it covers familiar territory even though the house collaborated with sportswear brand Adidas to incorporate the classic trefoil, three-stripe design on suits, capes, and shirts. Regular readers  know I am not a fan of the whole "athleisure wear" trend, so it is not the Adidas logo per se that interests me but the juxtaposition of the sport logo onto double breasted suits that is fun. I like the incongruity of it.

The first many collections Michele created for Gucci looked like French gender-fluid teens raided the closets and storage trunks of their grandparents and came out wearing a crazy patchwork mix of 70s and 80s fashion, a look that Michele himself has refered to as "attic chic." While this collection might still have a bit of that sense, it feels like it hangs together a bit more. But don't misunderstand: there is a wide variety of silhouettes here from tight, pegged trousers (some in leather!) to voluminous trailing trousers to culottes. Above it all stands the suit, well tailored, and presented in track suit colors, corduroy, or Punk-styled with studs and spikes. And it is nice to see that Michele is still a champion of prints that look as if they came off  a British sofa from 1975 (looks 24 and 35 among others)...and it is delightful. Note: Gucci is dedicated fur-free so the trim you see on coats, capes, and suits is faux. Thank you Gucci, for your commitment to a fur-free product.


https://www.gucci.com/

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