Monday, January 18, 2016

BEAUTY: Clothing--Roberto Cavalli

Menswear designers have long been appropriating elements from women's fashion...for years, Thom Browne, Vivienne Westwood, and Rick Owens (to name just a few) have sent their models out in skirts, robes, dresses, and aprons. We have also recently seen traditionally feminine materials employed in menswear like tulle and crêpe de chine. Designers have worked with the idea of gender in clothing for many years so it is a wonder that suddenly, we are at a tipping point in terms of clothing for men, and it seemed to be pushed over the edge by last season's Gucci show (here).

Peter Dundas who now heads Roberto Cavalli created a Fall-Winter '16-'17 collection at Milano Moda Uomo that plays with this idea--he even sent out models in silky, pussy bow blouses straight from the 70s. But his other inspiration seems to be the kind of 70s rock and roll persona, like perhaps Robert Plant or Roger Daltrey who would wear hip-hugger jeans, long scarves, and just such a blouse. While the Gucci collection may have looked like a survey of the wardrobe of a French grandmother from 1974, this Cavalli collection is scaled for the male body (unlike the cropped arms and short waists which was my only quibble with the Gucci collection) and still feels masculine in that insouciant, rocker way...I mean, just look at the fantastic paneled snakeskin jackets and the gorgeous orchid day pajamas (and please note that day pajamas are cropping up in many, many collections this season!).

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