Monday, January 16, 2017
BEAUTY: Clothing--Moncler Gamme Bleu
Thom Browne truly knows how to riff on a single theme. His collections are breathtaking in their focus and the sheer amount of mileage that Browne can wring out of a solitary idea or moment. He has been creative head of the menswear division of venerable French outerwear company Moncler since 2008, but he seems to never be at a loss for ideas. Every season seems effortless, and, well, right. For this Fall-Winter '17-'18 collection, he went back to the roots of Moncler as a company producing down jackets for skiing the Alps and riffed on the mountain climber as inspiration. The old-time goggles and cute, paste-on beards on his models hearkened back to those early Alpine explorers like Karl Blodig, John Ball, and Thomas Middlemore. But more than anything else, this collection was about climbing ropes and carabiners which criss-crossed outfits, trussing them up, sometimes even cabling together the legs of models who had to shuffle through the artificial snow of the runway space...all on Moncler's classic down jackets and ski pants in Thom Browne-blue, white, and red, with a smattering of navy, cornflower, and of course black (Browne has been a champion of black in his own collections for many seasons now...stay tuned for the Paris men's shows!).