Showing posts with label thom browne. Show all posts
Showing posts with label thom browne. Show all posts

Thursday, February 13, 2025

BEAUTY: Clothing--Thom Browne

Thom Browne showed a marvelous collection at New York Fashion Week. It was a co-ed show but I featuring the men's looks below. I love the bird motif but especially love the cozy, autumnal color palette Browne used. And here are the notes from the show to explain:

"surrounded by 2,000 origami paper birds, a pair of ornithologists cloaked in hooded parkas enter wearing double-faced wool iterations of the thom browne uniform. semi-sheer argyle stockings peek from over-the-knee suede waders as they sit at their perch, a white folded desk and chairs, ready to observe what’s to come.

otherworldly visitors emerge in heritage tweeds. silhouettes descend from strong shoulders. signature suiting broadens and argyle cardigans shrink. birds of pure fantasy rendered in satin stitch and gold bullion embroidery come to life on herringbone, glen plaid, houndstooth, and windowpane checks. not a single hemline repeated. each garment distinct from the other.

hallmarks of traditional menswear tailoring reach from the outside in. suede elbow patches and contrast collars complement self-covered buttons, belts, and armbands. a tweed football pinnie and chocolate brown suede varsity jacket, emblazoned with “65” in reference to thom’s birth year, pay homage to collegiate classics. pops of yellow evoke thom’s high school mascot, the canary. elsewhere, sequin, boucle yarn, silk ribbons, and featherlike thread converge in red, white, blue, and silver tweeds.

a dynamic sense of movement reappears in tweed and silk duchess satin dresses. side swept silhouettes contour the body while inverted box pleats reveal repp stripe silk with every move. in contrast, silk trompe l’oeil dresses lie flat on off-the-shoulder origami-inspired looks backed by unfinished petticoats. in the end, a rare bird emerges in a gold bullion embroidered grey suit jacket and sweeping ball skirt draped with 40 meters of heritage tweed.

from beloved hector to the iconic mr. and mrs. thom luggage bags to pumps, tuxedo slippers, and longwings of all heights, accessories and footwear are fully realized in brogued suede with a two-tone spectator color scheme—some veiled by argyle stockings and others punctuated by silk pom-poms and swarovski crystals."




https://www.thombrowne.com/

Wednesday, June 26, 2024

BEAUTY: Clothing--Thom Browne

When Thom Browne dreams up a collection, he truly commits to the theming of its presentation, something I admire about him. For his Spring Summer '25 women's and men's collection shown in Paris the other day, he took the upcoming Olympics in the City of Light as an inspiration. The show space held a static tug of war game as the audience filed into the Musée des Arts Décoratifs with its classically carved walls. The official start of the show saw The Spirit Of The Olympics appear to an orchestral fanfare worthy of any Olympics wearing a headpiece made of gold laurel leaves, and the tug of war teams went at it. But there was no apparent winner and they marched out of the space for the couture section to begin.

Browne's deconstructed suits and dresses came out in tones of white (a huge change from his dark collections of late), all made from lightweight muslin, the type of which is used in fashion house ateliers to mock up sample garments. But here, Browne used the material in various weights to create exquisite couture creations. Added to the Browne vernacular is intricate hand embroidery and beading, showing athletes in various poses on several pieces while models carried embroidery hoops with figures...the first model even wore an embroidery hoop hat. But one of the show stopping pieces was a dress showing on one half the human muscular system, as though the model had been flayed open. The other half showed the shape of muscles as seen with skin. And the wedding dress that closes the show is jaw dropping. Also of note: fantastic wrestling boots with cleats and an invisible heel! The final tableau was a trio of models in intricately embroidered and beaded jackets of, you guessed it, bronze, silver, and gold.

Do take a look at the video below. The show proper starts at 15:45. And the creations are wonderful.



https://www.thombrowne.com/

Friday, February 16, 2024

BEAUTY: Clothing--Thom Browne

Thom Browne closed New York Fashion Week with a spectacular, theatrical performance showcasing his Fall-Winter '24-'25 men's and women's collection. He took inspiration from Edgar Allan Poe's iconic poem "The Raven" and sent models out with black talon nails, black feathered hairpieces, and garments featuring ravens and of course the word "Nevermore." During the show, the Poe poem was read in its entirety by actress Carrie Coon who plays Bertha Russell on HBO Max's "The Gilded Age." Her reading should go down in history as the definitive version...watch the video below (the streaming and pre-show lasts until 23:00 when the show gets underway) and listen to Coon's effective, escalating emotion that leads to a chilling state of utter madness, while taking in the staging and set of a snow-covered field populated with bare, gnarled trees. And the clothing? Perfection.



https://www.thombrowne.com

Tuesday, May 3, 2022

BEAUTY: Clothing--Thom Browne

One of the many changes the pandemic has brought to the world is the upheaval in the fashion world (I know, I know, compared to the death and destruction it has wrought, it seems trivial, but it effects thousands of jobs and livelihoods as well.). After two years of digital shows and video lookbooks, many houses realized they no longer need to adhere to a fashion "schedule," or show during a prescribed fashion "week." And many designers also realized that instead of driving themselves to the brink by having to create sometimes up to eight or more collections per year (along with accessories and beauty products), they would do only one or two big shows a year...on their own schedule, whenever the hell they feel like it. Better for mental health and better in terms of sustainability (something many designers and houses are now very aware of).

So a few days ago, untethered from any schedule, Thom Browne showed his Fall-Winter '22-'23 collection for men and women in New York. And what a wild show it was. Thom Browne's shows are always a performance art adventure, and this was no exception. Presented as a TED(dy) Talk, a model came out in a hybrid Thom Browne-suit/Teddy Bear costume (the furry paw-gloves and platform boots are adorable) and held forth to an audience of Thom Browne Teddy Bears in the center of the space while models presented the looks. It became quickly clear that the theme of the show was toys and Teddy Bears which was reinforced later in the show.

Each outfit came in a pair: the first half of the show featured a "normal," realistic version of a Thom Browne creation, and once all those looks had cycled through, the second half featured a wild, deconstructed, blown-up, hallucinatory version of its partner. Where models in the first half wore traditional skirts and trousers and jackets in Thom Browne wool with details of repp tie striping (a staple of a traditional men's wardrobe, and we have seen that Browne loves nothing more than to play with and distort tradition while using the traditional tailoring vernacular) along with some pretty fabulous wedge platforms (for women and men!), the second half looks were toy versions (a tennis sweater from the first part became an enormous tennis ball in the second!), some looking like stuffed animals and carrying bags made from toys, with the same platform shoes but this time made out of children's alphabet blocks that spelled out THOM BROWNE. Amazing.

This doppelgänger idea reminds me of Browne's spooky 1920's Fall-Winter '16-'17double-look show here, as well as his Fall-Winter '17-'18 show of triple looks, here, shows whose themes were just as incredibly compelling and creative.

Take a look at the video and listen to the hilarious, Disney-park-like, "march of the toys" soundtrack. And watch through parts one and two to see each look together in the finale...they make perfect, beautiful sense when seen together! (Bonus points if you can spot David Harbor in the front row next to Maisie Williams!)



https://www.thombrowne.com/

Tuesday, September 28, 2021

BEAUTY: Man--Lee Pace

Starring in the upcoming Apple+ television series "Foundation," based on Asimov's novels, Lee Pace did some publicity for it in Esquire, modeling Gucci, Prada, and Dior Homme...and lookin' fiiiiine...


https://www.esquire.com/entertainment/a37706311/lee-pace-foundation-coats/

And he wore Thom Browne to this year's Met Gala!


https://www.instagram.com/leeepfrog/

Thursday, September 16, 2021

BEAUTY: Clothing--Thom Browne

Now that COVID has destroyed the traditional runway calendar for most clothing designers, I don't think I will be posting my usual January/June menswear collection reviews. Catch as catch can I guess, so Thom Browne's combined menswear and womenswear show live streamed just this past Saturday. Browne usually shows during Paris Fashion Week Men's...so we are a little out of synch, but here is the show (the video feed starts at 33 minutes and 40 seconds) which was performed in New York CIty. No photos of individual pieces (although the bags are pretty astounding), just love for the lush soundtrack and near-Butoh theatricality of it all.


https://www.thombrowne.com/

Saturday, October 10, 2020

Saturday, January 18, 2020

BEAUTY: Clothing--Thom Browne

In an unexpected move, Thom Browne skipped a runway presentation of his FW '20-'21 collection at Paris Fashion Week in favor of a lookbook. But if you are missing the theatricality and complex storytelling of a Thom Browne show, fear not for I bring good tidings of great joy. This lookbook sports a pretty interesting, visceral story and a fecund set so hang on...

Writing for Vogue, Luke Leitch cheekily summed it up:
"Take a pinch of ALICE'S ADVENTURES IN WONDERLAND (“Eat Me”). Add just a dash ANIMAL FARM (Stephen Jones’s [who made all of the masks of wool on papier-mâché] pig mask was especially intense) and maybe a soupçon of 'Eyes Wide Shut.' Scatter as seasoning into a significant mixture of Thom Browne. Et voila!"

But Browne's website tells the story like a fairy tale:

this is a tale of eight friends
who share the same taste ...

a statuesque host, his guests,
a cake ...

at sundown the group arrives by limousine,
they stretch their hind legs and shake out their manes,

mr. giraffe leads them inside,
where things may, or may not, be quite what they seem ...

“welcome,” he says “the champagne is on ice”
and they all raise a glass “to one wild night” ...

each guest sets the scene in their classic tailoring,
in twills and tweeds, and an animal motif ...

the group settles in with a roar and an oink,
mr pig and mr lion in skirts: one in checks, one in pleats ...

on two sturdy tables that look almost alive
there are flowers and candles, fruits and rich sweets ...

mr. giraffe opens the dining room doors with a flourish,
his twill suit is living as much as the room is ...

“we begin with dessert,” he tells his companions ...

thom browne surely does look yummy ...
they all marvel at the cake ...

piece after piece they clean their plates,
a confection in layers of red, white and blue ...

when they finish at last, they rise, and toast again,
then head slowly outside ...

now nearing dawn, the host swings his neck in farewell,
“may we do this again, same time next year”


Less about clothing and more about a narrative, this sumptuous, fantastical lookbook says...what? An indictment of hunting and poaching? A plea for vegetarianism for the good of the planet? A wise reminder to all ravenous oppressors that some day, the fork may be in the other hand? All of the above?


https://www.thombrowne.com/