BEAUTY: Clothing--Thom Browne

Now that COVID has destroyed the traditional runway calendar for most clothing designers, I don't think I will be posting my usual January/June menswear collection reviews. Catch as catch can I guess, so Thom Browne's combined menswear and womenswear show live streamed just this past Saturday. Browne usually shows during Paris Fashion Week Men's...so we are a little out of synch, but here is the show (the video feed starts at 33 minutes and 40 seconds) which was performed in New York CIty. No photos of individual pieces (although the bags are pretty astounding), just love for the lush soundtrack and near-Butoh theatricality of it all.

https://www.thombrowne.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Rick Owens

Rick Owens, Paris Fashion Week, Spring Summer '22, shown in Venice. I love the fact that the collection is largely colorless and organic yet retains the strong silhouette he is known for. I am, as usual, wild for it.

I will let The Master explain:

THIS WILL BE OUR FOURTH AND LAST COVID ERA SHOW SET ON THE VENEZIA LIDO BEACH WHERE I LIVE HALF THE YEAR AND WHERE MY TEAM CAN JOIN ME FROM OUR FACTORY A SHORT DRIVE AWAY. DOING LIVE SHOWS HERE FELT LIKE THE RIGHT THING TO DO DURING THIS STRAINED MOMENT — IT FELT REDUCED, INTIMATE, HONEST AND RAW — DOING LIVE STREAM SHOWS ON THE BEACH IN FRONT OF MY HOUSE FELT LIKE A RETREAT BUT NOT A DEFEAT.

WITH A POST-COVID IN VIEW THERE MIGHT BE A SENSE OF FRUSTRATED APPETITES DEMANDING TO BE DOUBLY SATISFIED THIS SUMMER THAT MIGHT MAKE FOR A VORACIOUSNESS FORGETTING THE HUMBLING EXPERIENCE WE ALL JUST WENT THROUGH TOGETHER. THIS COLLECTION EMBRACES HEDONISM BUT IN A SOFT, GRATEFUL WAY REFLECTING THIS NEW PERIOD OF CONTRADICTIVELY TRYING TO MIX GLAM WITH RESPONSIBILITY AND THOUGHTFULNESS.

WHITE-MAGIC-HOUSES-OF-THE-HOLY-STAIRWAY-TO-HEAVEN HIPPIES WEAR BAGGY, DRAGGING FLARES OVER PLATFORMS, WITH ECO COTTON DISCO BODYSUIT/BATHERS (ECODISCO!) UNDER TRANSPARENT SHIRTS OR TRANSPARENTLY TAILORED MONSTER-SHOULDERED BLAZERS AND COATS.

MY COMFORT LEVEL WITH OUR TAILORING CREW HAS LET ME REALLY SAVOR DEVELOPING THE INTERIOR STRUCTURAL PROCESS... AND EXPOSING IT... AND CELEBRATING ITS CONFECTION. WE SLICED INTO OUR COATS AND JKTS, RIPPING OFF SLEEVES, DEEPENING ARMHOLES, CUTTING AWAY FRONTS AND BACKS AND RENDERING EVERYTHING IN UNDYED COTTON ORGANDIES AND UNDYED SILK CHIFFONS THAT EXPOSE THE COMPLEXITY OF THE STRUCTURAL INTERLININGS BENEATH.

THE DRAGGING DENIMS ARE IN 16OZ BLACK, NATURAL, OR ORANGE SELVEDGE DENIM CUSTOM WOVEN FOR US BY YAMAASHI ORIMONO (EST. 1945) ON VINTAGE SAKAMOTO SHUTTLE LOOMS. THIS IS FROM AN ONGOING DRKSHW CAPSULE MADE IN KURASHIKI, OKAYAMA PREFECTURE, JAPAN.

DENIMS NOT COMING FROM OUR JAPAN CAPSULE ARE GOTS (GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD) CERTIFIED ORGANIC COTTON FROM A LOCAL ITALIAN MILL FOUNDED IN 1597.
SNAP FRONT SHIRTS (THIS GENERATION’S BLAZER!), COME IN CHIFFON, CRISP COTTON, AND A TRANSPARENT FOG NYLON ALSO USED TO MAKE DIAPHANOUS FOG HOODIES.
A HAND-KNOTTED BLANCHED COQ FEATHER JKT IS PRODUCED BY MAISON FÉVRIER (EST 1929), THE LAST OPERATING PLUMASSIER IN PARIS, WHO ONCE DID PIECES FOR JOSEPHINE BAKER.
BRUTALIST CHOKERS ARE FROM AN ONGOING JEWELRY COLLECTION PRODUCED BY GOOSSENS, THE MAISON THAT ONCE PRODUCED JEWELRY FOR COCO CHANEL, CRISTOBAL BALENCIAGA, AND MADAME GRÈS IN THE 1950S.
PERSONAL NON-TOXIC FOG MACHINES COME IN 3 SIZES — SMALL TO INSERT IN THE SIDE POCKETS ADDED TO OUR PLATFORM BOOTS... A CARRY-ON SIZE... AND A COFFEE TABLE SIZE.
WE CONTINUE INCLUDING JKTS AND BAGS IN PIRARUCU DRAGON SCALE LEATHER, A FOOD BYPRODUCT PRODUCED BY INDIGENOUS COMMUNITIES IN BRAZIL.

DURING THESE LIDO SHOWS, WE MADE FRIENDS WITH SWAMPGOD, A YOUNG CREATOR WHO LIVES DOWN THE BEACH FROM ME, AND I INVITED HIM TO COME VISIT THE FACTORY AND RIP OLD STOCK APART TO RECONFIGURE THEM INTO NEW PIECES THAT END UP BEING DECONSTRUCTIONS OF MY DECONSTRUCTIONS, SOME INCLUDED IN THIS COLLECTION. HE ALSO AGREED TO MODEL FOR THIS SHOW.
ALL OUR COTTON JERSEYS ARE WOVEN FROM GOTS CERTIFIED ORGANIC COTTON. LANGUID SHIRTS AND PANTS ARE IN BIODEGRADABLE COTTON WASTE CUPRO OR FSC CERTIFIED VISCOSE. OBVIOUSLY, WE/I STILL HAVE A WAYS TO GO TOWARDS OUR SUSTAINABILITY EFFORTS BUT WE ALL CAN AIM HIGHER AND START SOMEWHERE.
THE SOUNDTRACK IS A CUSTOM DERANGED MIX BY MOCHIPET — A DISTORTED HALLUCINOGENIC SOUNDSCAPE THAT CAPTURES THE WARPED PERIOD OF HEDONISM COMING UP. IT’S GONNA BE A GLUTTONOUS SUMMER, STAY SAFE.

https://www.rickowens.eu/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Yohji Yamamoto

I can't resist a Yohji Yamamoto collection. For SS '22 at Paris Fashion Week, Yamamoto referenced his previous Spring Summer 1986 men's collection...yes, he is legendary and has been designing for quite a while now. The highly regarded and highly decorated designer is one of those elevated, iconic artists who are singular. While I love when a designer takes inspiration, or inspirationS from some wild, fascinating, interesting source, Yamamoto exists in a realm of his own mythology, much like Rick Owens. Yamamoto has his own vernacular and his own internal logic that, when it comes down to it, simply does not need or want inspiration or a theme. His creations--East and West elements combined into a future/retro (sometimes ecclesiastical) sensibility, layered and slouchy Bohemian chic garments, flowing asymmetrical cuts, all awash with an insouciant, rippling sense of Romanticism worthy of any French Symbolist poet--are timeless, since they are not necessarily tethered to anything outside of their orbit.

Here he uses newsprint--a sort of Dadist cut-up ready made art material--along with images of hands and eyes, Surrealist staples that symbolize creation, i.e. the making of art, and a representation of the movement’s focus on exploring and visualizing the psyche. Perhaps the intention here was to escape the present reality and into the past, away from the uncertainty of the direction of the planet and humankind. Or perhaps he simply likes that period, with its punk hair and Goth make-up...

https://www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp/en/

BEAUTY: Clotihng--Boramy Viguier

I was about to move on from this SS ' 22 from Boramy Viguier but the still lookbook photos do not do it justice. Once I saw the pieces in motion, I ended up really liking the mix of tailored jackets and coats with sportswear pants but what throws this into interesting territory is the addition of beautiful, maximalist Asian jacquards in jewel tones embellished with dragons...not to mention all the ties (he sourced about 150 of them for the collection, giving them a second life, underscoring his ongoing commitment to using deadstock fabrics--50% with this collection!), chokers, and colorful hair pieces dangling from belts.

http://www.boramyviguier.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Burberry

It's been a while since I last posted a full Burberry collection--2014 to be exact, here. But Burberry creative director Christopher Bailey moved on from the house in 2017 and in 2018, Riccardo Tisci (formerly at Givenchy...see past collections here) became CCO of the brand. While I did post a video for his FW '20-'21 collection here, this current Spring Summer '22 collection at Paris Fashion Week feels like his first true collection for Burberry, as himself.

But having said that, it seems like each creative director must pay homage to the classic Burberry trench coat at some point in some form. They must kiss the ring as it were, and for this collection, Tisci opens with a ripped up, deconstructed trench and moves into new-for-Burberry territory from there. We enter a harsh desert world of workwear and protectivewear featuring biomorphic prints and cut-outs. These outfits seem like they are combat-ready. In fact, they have a bit of a Road Warrior feel to them but without the recycled, patchwork punk aesthetic--these minimalistic uniforms are slick, merciless, cold-blooded in their singular purpose. I also flash on another film reference, this one "Dune," whether the Lynch version or the upcoming Villeneuve version...some pieces of this collection seem like they are clothing the Fremen would wear, to protect themselves from the harsh Arakis climate. Taken as a whole, the collection itself feels harsh. And of course I can't help but leave the sci-fi film references behind and think about our reality right now...and how this might be the necessary clothing of the future for a planet swiftly sliding toward environmental catastrophe.

https://www.burberry.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Taakk

Japanese designer Takuya Morikawa started his brand Taakk in 2012 after working with legendary house Issey Miyake for seven years. And the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode has admitted him to show during Paris Fashion Week (his debut collection was last year for Fall Winter '21)!

This Spring Summer '22 collection is textile-centric and speaks to a sense of flowing luxury and soft sophistication. Morikawa uses blurred tie-dye floral prints, jacquard lilies, and embroidered cherry blossoms to evoke a sense of the natural world while the garments shimmer and drape. The satin shine and jersey draping all feel languid and soft yet somehow the cut of the garments themselves feel dressy and special!

Take a look at this official video for this collection in which Morikawa beautifully explains his inspiration and speaks about chance in nature...it's moving and lovely. And it's a great opportunity to see these special garments up close and listen to Morikawa's explanation of how he created hybrid fabrics and pieces.

https://taakk.jp/en

BEAUTY: Clothing--John Alexander Skelton

Well, Milano Moda Uomo has wrapped up but before we leave Italy and move on to France for Paris Week, I want to share one more collection from London. Digital London Fashion Week happened just before Milan and while not an official offering on the calendar, this wonderful Spring Summer '22 collection from artisanal designer John Alexander Skelton must be seen. A continuation of last season's collection, it takes inspiration from poet Ted Hughes and the Yorkshire area where the designer grew up.

Skelton (previously here--do take a look at some incredible past collections), who was awarded the Sarabande scholarship granted by the Lee Alexander McQueen Foundation and graduated from Central Saint Martin’s with an M.A. in fashion men’s wear in 2016, usually works closely with weavers and mills across England to create handcrafted silhouettes that draw reference from 19th-century menswear such as frock coats and high-waisted trousers. Treatments like hand-dying, hand washing and patching are recurrent features in his collections, lending a romanticism to his work which I just love.

But the pandemic forced the markets where he sourced antique linen to shut, so instead Skelton developed hemp-linen and hemp-cotton blends with several Irish mills. He said by mixing two different natural fibers together, the fabric becomes structured and multitonal even when dyed with just one color. For this collection, he also used indigo for the first time. Skelton said he used to find indigo rudimentary and difficult to use on outerwear, but he finally found an interesting way to modernize it.

"I want to make it more romantic," he said, referring to an indigo shirt made with handwoven cotton from India, in which the yarn is also spun by hand. "It creates this ripple effect within the fabric, and when that’s dyed with indigo, you get this quite interesting color, which is deep and light at the same time," he added.

Of course I am wild for the Romantic and historical references in his collections, and a signature detail of his is the plethora of buttons on shirts, waistcoats, and jackets. Skelton says he sees buttons as the simplest form of decoration, as a kind of jewelry, so he applies them liberally to pieces. I feel his love and respect for antique English clothing just like Westwood. It's all so beautiful. And the fact that the lookbook was photographed in the ruins of an abbey add to the Romantic sense and tickle me greatly...

https://www.johnalexanderskelton.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Tokyo James

The Spring Summer '22 collection Tokyo James created for Milano Moda Uomo seems to be simple, summery beach wear but something about it wouldn't let me click past. Fashion journalist Steff Yotka wrote it best for Vogue:

"The cellular signal inside Iniye Tokyo James’s Lagos atelier isn’t so great, so he has to take his Ata Rodo bags and button-up shirts outside for a better connection. Even with the occasional moments of glitching, the conversation is one of the best of virtual Fashion Week. Rarely do I see the actual space clothing is designed in; it’s rarer still to meet the people who make it. As James stands on his porch, his colleagues act as de facto models, trying on a wrap skirt with leather trouser panels and an inset leather blazer. It’s a human moment amidst the fashionable façades our very phygital Fashion Week provides.

James’s warmth and heart translate to his garments. This season he started thinking about the Osu caste system used by the Igbo people of eastern Nigeria. Osu—or outcasts—are shunned by society and looked down on; James saw them as representative of outcasts around the world. A collection that wafts through ideas of lightness and porousness was his solution; something gentler and kinder. He made use of beautiful white and pink/red lace for collar shirts, blazers, and trousers and created similarly perforated white jackets from cord. Underneath, there are James’s first boxer shorts with a bold logo tag; there is also a cheeky graphic tee that reads 'Tokyo F*****g James.' It’s delivered as a saucy message of self-preservation. Suiting remains the core of James’s offering, and he has loosened up its form with his signature slash vents, ruched fronts, and a new suit-skirt inspired by traditional African wraps."

https://www.tokyojames.co.uk/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Han Kjøbenhavn

Han Kjøbenhavn was started in 2008 as an eyewear brand by designer Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen and soon expanded into clothing for men and women. The brand was not on my radar until last summer (here), during the pandemic...Davidsen released a collection and accompanying video portraying aliens coming to earth in search of something: asylum, resources, kindness...

So for this Spring Summer '22 collection at Milano Moda Uomo, he is once again fascinated with a kind of alien silhouette, a futuristic texture. I like the criss-cross weave in leather or nylon, the Miyake-like pleats, the sequins, the strange alien hand that comes in a glove and also as a necklace which appears to choke its wearer, and of course those amazing shoulders! You need sharp tailoring skills to achieve that. Follow our alien (model Sacha Eusebe with shaved eyebrows) as he terrorizes a city à la Godzilla and loses an eye. 

And when I see the shapes and placement of the cut-outs on these garments, I am reminded, in a good way, of some of Bob Mackie's work for Cher. Ain't nothin' wrong with that.

https://hankjobenhavn.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Tíscar Espadas

For Milano Moda Uomo, Spanish fashion designer Tíscar Espadas (previously here) showed a fascinating Spring Summer 2022 collection that seems to riff on cuts, silhouettes, and details of ancient traditional Spanish clothing with echoes of Medieval garments. She calls the collection "Capítulo III" (her last two collections being the first and second installments of the series) and says it "is the entrance and meeting point between two different worlds. The transit and the valance between imaginary and reality. The divine and the earthly. A story loaded with symbolisms, searches and reminiscences of what the eternally human is."

https://www.tiscarespadas.com/