Sunday, June 27, 2021

BEAUTY: Clothing--Rick Owens

Rick Owens, Paris Fashion Week, Spring Summer '22, shown in Venice. I love the fact that the collection is largely colorless and organic yet retains the strong silhouette he is known for. I am, as usual, wild for it.

I will let The Master explain:

THIS WILL BE OUR FOURTH AND LAST COVID ERA SHOW SET ON THE VENEZIA LIDO BEACH WHERE I LIVE HALF THE YEAR AND WHERE MY TEAM CAN JOIN ME FROM OUR FACTORY A SHORT DRIVE AWAY. DOING LIVE SHOWS HERE FELT LIKE THE RIGHT THING TO DO DURING THIS STRAINED MOMENT — IT FELT REDUCED, INTIMATE, HONEST AND RAW — DOING LIVE STREAM SHOWS ON THE BEACH IN FRONT OF MY HOUSE FELT LIKE A RETREAT BUT NOT A DEFEAT.

WITH A POST-COVID IN VIEW THERE MIGHT BE A SENSE OF FRUSTRATED APPETITES DEMANDING TO BE DOUBLY SATISFIED THIS SUMMER THAT MIGHT MAKE FOR A VORACIOUSNESS FORGETTING THE HUMBLING EXPERIENCE WE ALL JUST WENT THROUGH TOGETHER. THIS COLLECTION EMBRACES HEDONISM BUT IN A SOFT, GRATEFUL WAY REFLECTING THIS NEW PERIOD OF CONTRADICTIVELY TRYING TO MIX GLAM WITH RESPONSIBILITY AND THOUGHTFULNESS.

WHITE-MAGIC-HOUSES-OF-THE-HOLY-STAIRWAY-TO-HEAVEN HIPPIES WEAR BAGGY, DRAGGING FLARES OVER PLATFORMS, WITH ECO COTTON DISCO BODYSUIT/BATHERS (ECODISCO!) UNDER TRANSPARENT SHIRTS OR TRANSPARENTLY TAILORED MONSTER-SHOULDERED BLAZERS AND COATS.

MY COMFORT LEVEL WITH OUR TAILORING CREW HAS LET ME REALLY SAVOR DEVELOPING THE INTERIOR STRUCTURAL PROCESS... AND EXPOSING IT... AND CELEBRATING ITS CONFECTION. WE SLICED INTO OUR COATS AND JKTS, RIPPING OFF SLEEVES, DEEPENING ARMHOLES, CUTTING AWAY FRONTS AND BACKS AND RENDERING EVERYTHING IN UNDYED COTTON ORGANDIES AND UNDYED SILK CHIFFONS THAT EXPOSE THE COMPLEXITY OF THE STRUCTURAL INTERLININGS BENEATH.

THE DRAGGING DENIMS ARE IN 16OZ BLACK, NATURAL, OR ORANGE SELVEDGE DENIM CUSTOM WOVEN FOR US BY YAMAASHI ORIMONO (EST. 1945) ON VINTAGE SAKAMOTO SHUTTLE LOOMS. THIS IS FROM AN ONGOING DRKSHW CAPSULE MADE IN KURASHIKI, OKAYAMA PREFECTURE, JAPAN.

DENIMS NOT COMING FROM OUR JAPAN CAPSULE ARE GOTS (GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD) CERTIFIED ORGANIC COTTON FROM A LOCAL ITALIAN MILL FOUNDED IN 1597.
SNAP FRONT SHIRTS (THIS GENERATION’S BLAZER!), COME IN CHIFFON, CRISP COTTON, AND A TRANSPARENT FOG NYLON ALSO USED TO MAKE DIAPHANOUS FOG HOODIES.
A HAND-KNOTTED BLANCHED COQ FEATHER JKT IS PRODUCED BY MAISON FÉVRIER (EST 1929), THE LAST OPERATING PLUMASSIER IN PARIS, WHO ONCE DID PIECES FOR JOSEPHINE BAKER.
BRUTALIST CHOKERS ARE FROM AN ONGOING JEWELRY COLLECTION PRODUCED BY GOOSSENS, THE MAISON THAT ONCE PRODUCED JEWELRY FOR COCO CHANEL, CRISTOBAL BALENCIAGA, AND MADAME GRÈS IN THE 1950S.
PERSONAL NON-TOXIC FOG MACHINES COME IN 3 SIZES — SMALL TO INSERT IN THE SIDE POCKETS ADDED TO OUR PLATFORM BOOTS... A CARRY-ON SIZE... AND A COFFEE TABLE SIZE.
WE CONTINUE INCLUDING JKTS AND BAGS IN PIRARUCU DRAGON SCALE LEATHER, A FOOD BYPRODUCT PRODUCED BY INDIGENOUS COMMUNITIES IN BRAZIL.

DURING THESE LIDO SHOWS, WE MADE FRIENDS WITH SWAMPGOD, A YOUNG CREATOR WHO LIVES DOWN THE BEACH FROM ME, AND I INVITED HIM TO COME VISIT THE FACTORY AND RIP OLD STOCK APART TO RECONFIGURE THEM INTO NEW PIECES THAT END UP BEING DECONSTRUCTIONS OF MY DECONSTRUCTIONS, SOME INCLUDED IN THIS COLLECTION. HE ALSO AGREED TO MODEL FOR THIS SHOW.
ALL OUR COTTON JERSEYS ARE WOVEN FROM GOTS CERTIFIED ORGANIC COTTON. LANGUID SHIRTS AND PANTS ARE IN BIODEGRADABLE COTTON WASTE CUPRO OR FSC CERTIFIED VISCOSE. OBVIOUSLY, WE/I STILL HAVE A WAYS TO GO TOWARDS OUR SUSTAINABILITY EFFORTS BUT WE ALL CAN AIM HIGHER AND START SOMEWHERE.
THE SOUNDTRACK IS A CUSTOM DERANGED MIX BY MOCHIPET — A DISTORTED HALLUCINOGENIC SOUNDSCAPE THAT CAPTURES THE WARPED PERIOD OF HEDONISM COMING UP. IT’S GONNA BE A GLUTTONOUS SUMMER, STAY SAFE.




https://www.rickowens.eu/

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