Monday, June 26, 2017

BEAUTY: Clothing--Misc. Paris Fashion Week SS'18

Some interesting things shown at Paris Fashion Week for Spring Summer '18:

Super high waists and drop crotches at Y Project make for a very interesting, eclectic, Vivienne Westwood-esque cut for trousers! I'd love a pair of each.

Luke Meier, the Canadian designer behind the brand OAMC says the name of his company is an acronym for something different every season. For this Spring Summer '18 collection based on the work of Allen Ginsburg including the legendary poem "Howl," Meier says the brand this time stands for "One Always More Conscious." The show notes included a section from Ginsburg's "Song": "The weight of the world is love. Under the burden of solitude, under the burden of dissatisfaction." Poetic phrases on small tags or large patches were sewn onto the pieces, phrases like "Lumière et Veritas" (Light and Truth--OH, how we need BOTH of those things in the world now), "My Way," and the plea "People For Peace." A large, detailed, embroidered version of a signed cover page from Ginsburg's "Howl" graced the back of a nylon flight jacket (seen from the back in the last photo)!

Like the collection by Philip Lim seen here, we saw two more designers send paint spattered garments down the runway. Junya Watanabe sent his usual Carhartts out but this time with paint...

...and designer Jean Touitou at A.P.C. had some paint fun as well, actually dripping paint himself, à la Pollock, onto 100 pairs of jeans!

And finally, I don't think I've ever seen such a pervasive 100th Monkey Moment as this season's preoccupation with...wait for it...the classic Hawaiian shirt! One reviewer said the plethora of shows this year that featured the iconic garment made Hawaiian shirts cool again. But come on, were they ever NOT cool? They embody a fun sense of 1950s nostalgia that never left, a time when air travel became inexpensive and Hawaii turned into a destination when it became a state in 1959. Tiki lounges, surfing, kitschy cocktails...they were there in the 60s and 70s, and even 80s and 90s. A Hawaiian shirt--a good one--is a fun staple in a summer wardrobe.

Louis Vuitton did a colorful take on the Hawaiian shirt... did Paul Smith in amsuing, nearly cartoon-y designs.

Ami chose flashy, fluorescent--yet ultimately pretty--shades (and models walked the show on fuchsia sand!) for their Hawaiian shirts...

...while Cerruti 1881 rendered them in earthy hues.

Dries Van Noten went almost neutral.

Lucien Pellat Finet offered a stark, graphic take with the word ALOHA.

And finally, sartorial celebrity turned fashion designer Justin O'Shea (previously here) started a brand he calls SSS World Cup and this season it featured a collection entitled "Aloha From Hell." Sort of a punk-y, badass take on the Hawaiian shirt...and the show was not a runway show at all but guerrilla fashion. Journalists were invited to a street corner in Paris at a certain time to see Justin O'Shea ride a motorcycle and see a small group of models just walk down the sidewalk... get in, do it, get out...

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