The Fashion East–administered new talent incubator called MAN shows three up and coming designers every season. The platform has produced some incredible talent including Craig Green. This season, a standout section belonged to Charles Jeffrey's Loverboy label. This Fall-Winter collection played on clothing from the Dark Ages through the Renaissance to Beau Brummel, including doublets and references to ecclesiastical cassocks...
...all over some pretty awesome square-nosed boots and monk strap shoes.
Christopher Shannon played on the anxiety of the zeitgeist in both a humorous but humorous-because-it's-true way by subverting the logos of large clothing retailers. Calvin Klein became "Constant Stress--I'm Done," the shoe manufacturer Timberlake morphed into Tumbleweed, and BOSS INTERNATIONAL proclaimed LOSS INTERNATIONAL. I think anyone with any sense and a head in which to process it is worried about the potential loss to come in our culture.
And since I'm a shoe man, two shows caught my eye. The Casely-Hayford show offered a fascinating shoe that on first glance is nothing special, but upon closer inspection turns out to be a kind of Frankenstein shoe, a cross between an athletic shoe and a sock in multi-colored fabric.
And Grace Wales Bonner showed some superb sandals--I know, I know, sandals for winter?--but the slight cut outs make them less of a sandal and more of a proper shoe. I adore her colors, harlequin diamonds, and cow spots. I once had a pair of black leather loafers whose tops were black and white hair on hide exactly like the pair in the middle on the bottom row. I adored them and wore those things until they literally dissolved.
http://www.charlesjeffrey.net/
http://casely-hayford.com/home/
http://www.walesbonner.net/
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