Monday, June 20, 2022

BEAUTY: Clothing--Etro

A few weeks ago, the news came that Kean Etro is stepping down as head of menswear at Etro, the illustrious brand his father started in 1968. Kean's sister Veronica will also be stepping down from her role as creative director of womenswear after the Etro family sold a majority stake to the private equity firm L Catterton. So this Spring Summer '23 collection at Milano Moda Uomo proves to be the last for the Etro siblings.

When creating his last many, many collections, Kean Etro's inspiration has come from a beautiful internal sense of spirituality and a curiosity of how metaphysical ideas manifest in different cultures. He expressed that sense in a sort of Bohemian, globe-trotting pastiche of color and print (always featuring, to some degree, the sumptuous paisley prints made famous by the house). And this lovely, summery collection is no different. Being a Spring Summer collection, the materials are mostly sheer silks for tops, and some open knits and lace weaves for trousers. We can also see some slouchy-sexy-casual suiting (with obi sashes!), exotic djellabas and flowing caftans, and a dose of bathing costumes and beachwear. I also like the color progression of the entire collection: it starts with white, works its way through warm color into cool, then into darks and blacks. It is a sort of color spectrum journey through a prism.

But just by way of observation, I am a little surprised that Kean Etro's final collection shows very little print or pattern. It seems that his swan song would be a celebration of the DNA of the house and what he has accomplished--but perhaps for that very reason, he opted for small florals and solid colors. Why try to make a grand statement when that statement has already been made?


Love the neo-hippy toe rings on models...


And here are Veronica and Kean taking a final bow. Arrivederci e mille grazie for the years of beauty.



Marco de Vincenzo will be the new creative director for both menswear and womenswear while remaining in his position of head designer of leather goods at Fendi.

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