BEAUTY: Clothing--Misc. Milano Moda Uomo SS '23

Milano Moda Uomo has wrapped up and the attention now turns to Paris. But before that, there were a few miscellaneous details at Milano Moda Uomo that caught my eye...

...I adore double wrap belts. I had one in the disco 70s, and I just bought one recently out of nostalgia so I am delighted to see them pop up at both Dolce and Gabbana...

...and Emporio Armani:

On to shoes.

JordanLuca showed some amazing and audacious thigh-high leather boots!

And a rubber-molded puffy sandal moment happened at Fendi...

...at Federico Cina...

...and at Dhruv Kapoor.

And speaking of Dhruv Kapoor (who started his own label in 2013 after working at Etro), he showed a collection that was skewed toward a certain bland 90s streetwear sense, but the addition of a scribbled floral pleasantly manifested in sequin appliqués on oversized suiting. The unexpected result is quite lyrical.

https://www.dolcegabbana.com
https://www.armani.com
https://www.jordanluca.com
https://www.fendi.com/
https://federicocina.com/
https://dhruvkapoor.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--JordanLuca

The digital version of London Fashion Week 2021 just wrapped and it was a short affair this year--only three days. And as I noted last season, it seems like there are few designers left to participate in LFW. The big names have all left to show in Milan or Paris. But there are still a few interesting designers and brands left to explore.

This SS '22 collection for Digital London Fashion Week by brand JordanLuca (headed by Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto) has some really interesting cuts, details, and embellishments worth a closer look. I like that this sort of exhausted, white-flag-surrendered punk look is presented in an automobile junk yard. And I really love the trains on jackets, as well as the mini- and maxi-kilts!

JordanLuca SS22, in all its glory, continues to hone in on the precious nature of the present. On the rare occasion an eclipse is visible from the earth, it’s transient, ephemeral, and commands attention. Why do we so often forget to take the same pleasure in our own fleeting moments?

This collection is a reflection of the multitudes we each hold within ourselves: anger, grief for all we have lost, yet also longing, joy and elation for the ways in which we have made it here, all colluding in a triumphant celebration of life and vitality.

There’s strength in vulnerability, and catharsis in the resolution of trauma. SS22 speaks to the power and thrill inherent to renewal – it turns the self-destructiveness of addiction on its head, by reimagining masculinity in the most visceral, jubilant and effervescent way possible.

A considered colour palette of whites, jade green, saffron and flashes of pillar box red create a delicate, somber mood, and 1950s Cuban silhouettes stand in stark contrast to underlying themes of British movements: skinheads, postage stamps, bunting, memorabilia, and crucially, pride.

Union jacks are stitched in mono-colour onto cream jersey shorts, frayed and with raw edges, while machine stitched tulle roses adorn vests and biker jackets, quietly commemorating London’s subcultural heritage without ever feeling nostalgic or sentimental.

This is a personal jubilee, a punk-inflected white flag of surrender, interspersed with crisp silk suits and long bridal trains, fine nanny corset knits, rich organza and summer weight knitwear. There are dainty kilts offset by chunky snakeskin patterned boots, white platforms and studded clogs, while figure-hugging mesh tops are cinched in at the waist by buckled leather belts.

Things as we know them will probably never be the same. SS22 channels this feeling through each garment, each one representing a rebirth, a reckoning, and a revelling in the here and now.

https://www.jordanluca.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--JordanLuca

Regular readers know I have a thing for clothing that references other time periods, and this Fall Winter 2020 collection from JordanLuca (Italians Jordan Bowen, and Luca Marchetto who formerly worked at Vivienne Westwood...hence the historical references in cuts and silhouettes) at London Fashion Week Men's sure hits the spot with references to the Renaissance Era, and specifically the Elizabethan period. Look closely for vented sleeves, padded gilets, and Tudor caps on Prince Valiant haircuts! It's all great fun with enough black to make the collection wearable for right now.

Extra points for incorporating upcycled and recycled fabrics and yarns into this collection. Sustainability is a hot button issue, of course for the entire planet, but also for the fashion industry whose financial practices and brand applications represent a tremendous amount of waste and contributes to climate catastrophe.

http://www.jordanluca.com/