Tuesday, June 24, 2014

BEAUTY : Clothing--Dsquared2

The Caten twins at Dsquared2 created a tribute to Andy Warhol for their Spring Summer '15 collection at Milano Moda Uomo. They titled the collection "Stud2io"--the runway was a facsimile of Andy's legendary Factory in Manhattan, complete with "Superstars" and various hangers-on. A remixed version of the late Lou Reed's fantastic "Walk On The Wild Side" kicked things off.

A Warhol-esque silk-screened portrait on a tee peeked out from under a jacket, Warhol-illustrated cats played on a sweatshirt, one tee simply announced "ANDY," and yet another tee was a Dsquared2 version of Warhol's famous Campbell's tomato soup cans. But the Catens did not stop there, in the 60s and 70s; they also invoked Warhol related artists from the 80s. Stephen Sprouse is a legendary name in fashion: he came to prominence in the 80s, using signature day-glo colors and graffiti-style prints. His first collection was presented at the last location of Warhol's Factory, and later in his career he utilized Warhol's day-glo camouflage (with Andy's permission) which is now interpreted for a third time by Dsquared2. Sprouse was also famous for letters and words scrawled in a graffiti pattern which he used liberally on everything from tights to scarves and bags for Louis Vuitton. This graffiti print also made an appearance in the Caten's show, spelling out "Dsquared." And finally, we see some references to Jean-Michel Basquiat, a Manhattan painter who collaborated with Andy on some later works. Basquiat's cartoon-y, scratchy doodle-like, tribal art can be seen here on denim jeans and tees. For good measure, there were brightly colored buttons worn on shirts for a full 1980s effect. Although the references in this show spanned three decades, it all hung together remarkably well, thanks to the legacy of Warhol.


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