Tourne de Transmission's creative director Graeme Gaughan looked to a photo journal book by Leah Gordon called KANAVAL, a sixteen-year long documentary of carnival in Jacmel, Haiti for inspiration. While initially exciting with looks in all black and lace with Santeria-esque rosaries and voudoun drums (Haitian references--click on the book title link to see fascinating photos), the rest of the collection devolved into streetwear. Ho hum.
Some designers are preparing for cataclysmic weather from the looks of their collections and who can blame them when we look around the planet and see deep freezes, once-in-a-century hurricanes, and beyond-human-endurance temperatures. We need to be ready for anything in these unpredictable times. Samuel Ross of A-Cold-Wall showed a collection ready for just such things. A former assistant of Virgil Abloh of Off White (previously here), Ross has only been showing for two years and has scored quite an exclusive stockist list that includes Harvey Nichols in the UK, Barneys in NYC, United Arrows in Japan and IT in Hong Kong...
Pronounce designers Yushan Li and Jun Zhou also had serious weather in mind with their oversized puffy outerwear that gently evoked Chinese silhouettes.
Turning to shoes, Patrick Grant at E. Tautz presented a collection that was meant to evoke 80s Britian by borrowing certain silhouettes or details from punks, mods, rockers and the New Romantics of the period. The collection in actuality is simply loose fitting plaids and checks but he did manage to revive the elevated creeper shoe!
https://tournedetransmission.com/
https://www.a-cold-wall.com/
https://etautz.com/
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