Friday, February 26, 2021

BEAUTY: Clothing--Dunhill

Dunhill showed a very modern--for the brand at least--FW '21-'22 collection for London Fashion Week. In the show notes, creative director Mark Weston (who took over the venerable but creaking English brand four years ago to breathe new life) said the collection was "a playful gathering of objects featuring both provenance and purpose... at once homespun and urbane...I wanted to focus on clothes rather than themes, on individual garments and accessories and what they stand for in their own right. This is something that seems more appropriate when a collection is looked at in detail rather than shown and seen at a distance."

These playful objects included a classic Tom Baker-era Dr. Who-inspired scarf (to evoke Weston's mother who gave him and his brother such scarves to wear in winter!) and fanny packs that are disguised as cummerbunds (a brilliant idea and I don't know why we have not seen such a thing before!). The provenance is present in a coat called the Compendium, a riff on a past Dunhill object of the same name which was a little accessory that included a cigarette compartment, penknife, lighter holder, and pen tray. The coat version (fifth image here) offers plenty of pockets and storage along with a detachable, zippered bottom. Indeed, volume is present in most of the collection in roomy overcoats, a puffy version of a classic tan trench coat, and quilted leather scarf!


https://www.dunhill.com/

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