But he has managed to create a few collections that are unique, previously here. And this Fall-Winter 2023-2024 collection shown at Milano Moda Uomo is worth examining.
As with so many designers trying to find new ways to express the traditional concept of menswear through deconstruction, Scott takes men's tailoring and suiting as a starting point, but perhaps more thoroughly and even more uniquely than ever seen before, he comes up with some interesting new translations. Take the iconic wool gentleman's suit...he Frankenstein's a patchwork pattern for jackets. trousers, and overcoats. A skirt made of neckties is a wild moment.
He then moves on to literally deconstructing suiting with some offerings that seem to be garments presented inside out so the seaming and stitching can be seen. A collar curls up to become a hood. Sleeves are slashed from the body and held in place with braces, a look that certainly harkens back to Gaultier's costumes he created for Madonna on her Blonde Ambition tour. Scott even puts braces on a corset worn under a jacket. In a continuing tour of uniforms and de rigeur clothing for men, we take a stop into Tom of Finland territory with some motorcycle leathers, and we end up in a Puttin' On The Ritz motif of pieces worn by Cary Grant in "Bringing Up Baby" but worn twisted, sideways. A tuxedo jacket sprouts a second set of lapels on the arms, and a ruffle wraps around a collar and slinks its way down the trousers. It all feels like a very imaginative deconstruction and playful chiding of the clothing limits that have imposed upon men for a century or more. Good work, Jeremy!
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