Sunday, January 26, 2025

BEAUTY: Clothing--WILLY CHAVARRIA

I am pleased in so many ways with Willy Chavarria's first Paris show, a moving spectacle of authentic culture. I don't usually do this but I am posting fashion journalist Sarah Mower's review from Vogue about this show because she was there and it covers a lot of vital material in a succinct way.

Willy Chavarria
FALL 2025 MENSWEAR

By Sarah Mower
January 25, 2025

Paris got to witness an unforgettable full-force fashion moment when Willy Chavarria brought all of his friends and all of their massed Chicano and Latine pride to the American Cathedral today. It was political, packed with personalities and raring with the kind of authentic high-octane silhouette-shifting design conviction that has largely gone missing in fashion.

It is always unexpected, overlooked “outsiders” who have the power to challenge and shift the status quo in fashion. The difference with Willy Chavarria—in a very good and accomplished way—is that his moment has come as a “newcomer” in Paris at the same time as he's celebrating his 10th anniversary. To European eyes who’ve never seen his New York shows, and are fresh to his glorification of broad-shoulder tailoring, spread collar shirts, and his unique volume of trouser, or the waist-focused sexiness of a tan workwear bomber and a high-rise fluid pant, the impact—the completeness of his worldview—is stunning.

And it was the place—a church—and the timing of Donald Trump’s declaration of war on immigrants, LGBTQI+, and women’s rights, which of course super-charged the political relevance of Chavarria’s takeover. It began with men in super-smart Chicano Sunday Mass suits, clutching pearl rosary beads, segued through a wink to Chanel-like tweed jackets, celebrations of low-rider and Cholo culture, and ended with a bare-chested, knuckle-clenched ’90s hip-hop style Chavarria adidas collaboration parade—characters he described as “warriors for social justice, taking a strong stance in the fight for equality.”

When Chavarria came out, he was wearing a t-shirt emblazoned with “How We Love Is Who We Are,” from his see-now, buy-now collaboration with Tinder “serving as a powerful response to over 570 anti-LGBTQI+ bills introduced globally in the past year.” (Tinder has made a donation in Chavarria’s honor to the Human Rights Campaign). Then he stood in front of the ranks of his models as the speech that Bishop Mariann Edgar Budde made to President Trump played.

There was a wild crush of people pushing through in the dark to the presbytery-backstage to congratulate Chavarria afterwards. He spoke on the global message he is promulgating: “It’s important now to wear your heart on your sleeve. We are people living in fear right now. We are gay, lesbian, and trans, queer immigrants, the people who cook our food and clean our rooms, and we need to protect them.”

Asked about the religious significance of showing in church, he began, “it’s very synonymous with Latino culture. I really wanted to show so many of the people who have not been welcomed into the church, not only being here in the church, but being canonized in the church.” At that split second, he saw a man in a black cassock in the crowd.

“Are you a priest?” he exclaimed. Came the answer: “I’m the Dean, and this place welcomes everyone. I hope everyone realizes that your message is true to this place. We welcome everyone. And we’re glad you were here. Thank you for doing this.” And then Willy Chavarria and the Dean of the American Cathedral in Paris hugged. A beautiful, bright piece of fashion history blazed in the darkness.



Please take some time to watch this powerful, exquisite statement.


https://willychavarria.com/

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