This show sees his menswear outside in the courtyard of the Palais du Tokyo for the first time. And instead of walking around the fountain, he chose to have his show in the fountain. Watch the video below to see each model dive under the water, and the finale on the scaffolding is a sight (turns out there is a reason several of the models sported harnesses and carbiners). So is the addition of a reworked platform Larry boot into a sort of bag boot, fringe (!), jackets cut so short as to be shrugs, and keep an eye out for a screen print of a row of urinals in a men's room.
Here are his show notes:
SS26 TEMPLE MEN’S
THURSDAY 26 JUNE 2025
PALAIS DE TOKYO, 13 AVENUE DU PRÉSIDENT WILSON, 75116 PARIS
THIS MEN’S COLLECTION IS NAMED ‘TEMPLE’, AFTER MY RETROSPECTIVE, NAMED ‘TEMPLE OF LOVE’ (‘LOVE’ IS A WORD REALLY WORTH PROMOTING RIGHT NOW), WHICH WILL BE OPENING IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE RUNWAY SHOW AT THE MUSÉE PALAIS GALLIERA RIGHT ACROSS THE STREET. A RETROSPECTIVE SUMMONS UP THOUGHTS OF PEAKING, FINALITY AND DECLINE AND I WAS DELIGHTED TO LEAN INTO THAT.
THE EXHIBITION TRACKS THE PURSUIT OF GLAMOUR AND SLEAZE THAT I WAS LOOKING FOR ON HOLLYWOOD BOULEVARD, AND EVENTUALLY, IMPROBABLY, ENDING UP IN A PARIS MUSEUM. I HAVE ALWAYS THOUGHT OF WHAT I DO AS A FASCINATION WITH THE DENSENESS OF EUROPEAN AESTHETIC SOPHISTICATION SEEN THROUGH A FILTER OF AMERICAN BLUNTNESS.
THE BLUNTNESS HERE IS IN THE FIELDS OF FLESH SHOWN BETWEEN GAPS OF BLACK LEATHER.
STUDDED STRAPS FROM HOLLYWOOD BOULEVARD ARE DRAPED AND SWAGGED TO RECALL GARLANDS HELD BY NYMPHS TO TRAP A SATYR IN WILLIAM-ADOLPHE BOUGUEREAU’ S SYLVAN NEOCLASSICAL PAINTINGS. STRAPS ARE ALWAYS A GOOD EXCUSE FOR MEN TO COMFORTABLY INDULGE IN SELF ADORNMENT THAT ALSO PROVIDES A WHIFF OF ACTION.
HEAVYWEIGHT LEATHERS VEGTANNED IN SANTA CROCE SULL’ARNO, TUSCANY, ARE ALSO SLASHED, FRINGED, SPIKED AND ZIPPED TO MOVE, SWAY AND BREATHE.
VOLUPTUOUSLY PROPORTIONED FLIGHT JACKETS AND PARKAS ARE RENDERED IN EITHER SILK TAFFETA, OR INDUSTRIAL NYLON CANVAS WOVEN IN THE COMO REGION OF ITALY BY A FAMILY OWNED MILL FOUNDED IN 1952. THE NYLON USED IS GRS CERTIFIED WHICH ENSURES A REDUCTION IN WATER CONSUMPTION , EMISSIONS AND HAZARDOUS WASTE, LESSENING THE DEPENDENCE ON NON-RENEWABLE RESOURCES. THESE ARE WORN WITH VOLUMINOUS COTTON CANVAS SHORTS PAIRED WITH OPEN TOED VELCRO-STRAPPED PADDED ORTHOPEDIC FOOTWEAR WE CALL BURRITO SNEAKS.
I HAVE DONE A COLLABORATION WITH SUICIDE, THE NEW YORK PUNK BAND PIONEERING THE USE OF MINIMALIST ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENTATION DURING THE 1970S. VOCALIST ALAN VEGA AND MUSICIAN MARTIN REV’S RAW, DISTURBING SOUND MIRRORED THEIR DESTROYED AND DECONSTRUCTED LEATHERS WHICH WE HAVE TRANSLATED HERE INTO JACKETS MADE FROM HEAVY HIDES TANNED AND PRODUCED IN HYOGO PREFECTURE, JAPAN.
TERRY-ANN FRENCKEN, WORKING WITH CASHMERE UNDER THE NAME TOTALKOSTER, WAS OUR FIRST SHOWROOM MODEL IN 2002 AND, INDULGING IN THE SPIRIT OF SHAMELESS NOSTALGIA , I ASKED HER TO REPRODUCE SOME OF HER FAVORITE KNITS FROM THAT TIME.
POLAROID IMAGES I TOOK OF HER 20 YEARS AGO ARE AMONG THE FIRST PAGES OF THIS EXHIBITION’S CATALOG.
THE SOUND TRACK IS KLAUS NOMI, ONE OF THE LEGENDARY WEIRDOS WHO HELPED LIBERATE THE WEIRDO IN ME, SINGING ‘DIDO’S LAMENT’ FROM DIDO AND AENEAS BY HENRY PURCELL.
THY HAND BELINDA; DARKNESS SHADES ME,
ON THY BOSOM LET ME REST,
MORE I WOULD, BUT DEATH IN VADES ME;
DEATH I SNOW A WELCOME GUEST.
WHEN I AM LAID IN EARTH,
MAY MY WRONGS CREATE
NO TROUBLE IN THY BREAST;
REMEMBER ME ,
REMEMBER ME ,
REMEMBER ME ,
BUT AH! FORGET MY FATE…
DING - DONG THE WITCH IS DEAD
https://www.rickowens.eu/
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