BEAUTY: Clothing--Stefan Cooke

It's London Fashion Week and it looks like, from the schedule, there are a fair amount of interesting designers about to show. I am optimistic...

Of the few shows so far, I particularly liked Stefan Cooke's presentation. His Spring Summer '24 collection had an oblique narrative, despite the fact that Cooke says the moodboard was simple, citing "Summer" as an inspiration.

What I get from the collection are references to those classic summer days of long ago. Large checked picnic blankets become ponchos and maxi-skirts. Tops come with a permanently integrated "winner's sash" draping the shoulder (champion of sack races in the park? of summer swim meets?). Caps feature vintage feather hackles from formal military uniforms (4th of July parade uniforms?).

Most interesting though are the accompanying bags, a collaboration between Cooke and fifty-year old British leather luxury goods brand Mulberry. Bags that were recycled through Mulberry's circularity program were embellished by Cooke with enormous chunky tassels made from upcycled rugby shirts, guitar straps embroidered with buttons, and vintage scarves.

It all feels bright and easy and primary and fun...like the memory of a nostalgic summer.

https://www.stefancooke.co.uk/
https://www.mulberry.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Misc. London Fashion Week

Well, London Fashion Week wrapped up yesterday and I am still mourning what it once was, back when it was London Fashion Week: Mens. At that time there were more designers, more names, seemingly more creativity--and it was a dedicated event for men's fashion. Now the men's/women's hybrid or genderless schedule is populated with young talent who are still finding their footing...many are good and will, judging from their blossoming brand output, become better. But overall, and certainly compared to the past, it is disappointing. And it is most specifically disappointing to see the retreat of menswear collections.

I just didn't see much that truly inspired me. And there were precious few Fall-Winter '22-'23 collections that presented interesting details.

However, Stefan Cooke created a humorous accessory: a crinolined cummerbund that ends up being a sort of smaller version of a tutu but for men.

And Indian designer Kaushik Velendra showed some stand out pieces that riffed on the idea of ancient (Greek? Roman?) battle armour updated for today's sleeker, minimalistic sense--as if the armour had been engineered by Apple.

https://www.stefancooke.co.uk/
https://www.maisonvelendra.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Misc. London Fashion week Men's

Here's a wrap up of some nice moments at this year's London Fashion Week Men's for Spring Summer 2020.

Young shooting star designer Kiko Kostadinov showed a collection at London Fashion Week Men's that was inspired by jockeys at the Kentucky Derby. Large color blocks defined garments but were also present on some great boots!

Speaking of footwear, over at the Münn show, Korean designer Hyun-min Han showed some pretty amazing sandals with sheer socks and tulle bows.

And Stefan Cooke's Elizabethan-stage-costume inspiration looked to corsetry lacing for their boots and shoes in pink, red, and powder blue!

For his namesake brand Qasimi, designer Khalid S. Al Qasimi paved the runway for his Middle East-themed show (he says being born in the UAE, it is his duty to be political and to bring a positive light to the war-torn region) with 12 tons of coffee grounds sourced from a company that recycles them to make burning logs. His idea was to add an additional sense to the show..."I wanted something poetic that evokes the senses. It has the right texture and color, and smells good," said Al Qasimi after the show.

https://kikokostadinov.com/
http://munnseoul.kr/
https://www.stefancooke.co.uk/
https://www.qasimi.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Stefan Cooke

The Fashion East-supported talent incubator MAN has seen some amazing talent come through its ranks: Craig Green, Bobby Abley, JW Anderson, Wales Bonner, Charles Jeffrey, and Agi & Sam are a few who spring to mind. And among this current crop of designers is Central St. Martin's graduate Stefan Cooke. For his second collection for MAN (you get three and then you're pushed out of the nest to fly--or fall--on your own), he presented a SS '19 parade of argyle...some made of a sort of chain mail of buttons, and some fabric versions inset with acrylic discs.

Cooke said that the collection evoked for him the idea of childhood summer holidays that always somehow ended in a sense of ennui, which could be alleviated by digging out old clothes (a feather boa, a grandfather's suit, etc.) to wear and play dress-up. There does seem to be a kind of retro vibe to his argyle as well as the frilly, half-hidden Pierrot collars poking out form under jackets...and the maribou-trimmed belts which are a nod to that dress-up feather boa. The more I look at this collection, the more it grows on me. It is interesting, unique...and sweet.

http://www.stefancooke.co.uk/