Of the few shows so far, I particularly liked Stefan Cooke's presentation. His Spring Summer '24 collection had an oblique narrative, despite the fact that Cooke says the moodboard was simple, citing "Summer" as an inspiration.
What I get from the collection are references to those classic summer days of long ago. Large checked picnic blankets become ponchos and maxi-skirts. Tops come with a permanently integrated "winner's sash" draping the shoulder (champion of sack races in the park? of summer swim meets?). Caps feature vintage feather hackles from formal military uniforms (4th of July parade uniforms?).
Most interesting though are the accompanying bags, a collaboration between Cooke and fifty-year old British leather luxury goods brand Mulberry. Bags that were recycled through Mulberry's circularity program were embellished by Cooke with enormous chunky tassels made from upcycled rugby shirts, guitar straps embroidered with buttons, and vintage scarves.
It all feels bright and easy and primary and fun...like the memory of a nostalgic summer.
https://www.stefancooke.co.uk/
https://www.mulberry.com/
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