BEAUTY: Clothing--Balmain

If you are a regular reader of "Oh, By The Way," and have seen my commentaries on the fashion shows this season or seasons past, you might glean that I am not a fan of fashion that is luxe for the sake of luxe. But let me clarify: Would I turn down a butter-soft Giorgio Armani jacket? Hell to the no. Would I sniff at an exquisitely tailored Canali suit? Of course not. But my true interests lie in the artistic statement of clothing--the more unusual and eclectic, the better.

But Olivier Rousteing, Balmain's young creative director, somehow manages to produce luxe clothing within an artistic statement. Since he has taken over the venerable couture house in 2011, he has established a new, rich sense and exotic silhouette. And it is this silhouette that makes his pieces stand out and elevate the luxe brand to something beyond. Take a look at his laced and embellished references for his SS '17 collection shown at Paris Fashion Week: loose fitting Asian tops with sashes, draped Greek togas, and encrusted Roman centurion armor. For the latter, Rousteing studded garments with cabochons of malachite and turquoise (bottom row, left). Even when he is using pale blue denim, it still manages to look sumptuous. And please do take a moment to ogle the gorgeous ankle-covering Roman sandals (I covet the pair on the middle model, top row)...along with some lovely jewelry pieces like long gold fringe swinging from a bar of metal or stone, and chunky bracelets of chrysocolla.

https://www.balmain.com

BEAUTY: Clothing--Balmain

Balmain went on a wild adventure for its Spring Summer '16 collection at Paris Fashion Week. Safaris in pith helmets (here rendered as caps), the Foreign Legion, and English campaigns in deserts formed the basis for a stunning show of luxury versions of khaki clothing.

Woven leather and tiger printed hair-on-hide make an appropriate appearance. And fashion journalist Luke Leitch at Style.com noted that "the house's Fabergé lush military braiding was reissued in a jute-ish organic twine."

Also present is the idea of some kind of medieval chain mail...and the connected medallions of wood or metal. At first glance, it all might seem uneventful, but keep looking. Olivier Rousteing, Balmain's creative director has created a cohesive sartorial statement with depth. Rousteing has been head of Balmain since 2011 when, at the young age of 25, he took over for Christophe Decarnin... and this collection is all the more amazing because it is his first menswear show for the catwalk!

I don't usually post close-ups from shows but in this instance, I can't help it...this Balmain show has so many fascinating, mind-boggling details that need to be studied to be appreciated. Look at these textures like the latticed braiding and twine, and materials like the linked square medallions...it's all fairly breathtaking.

And last but NOT least, I need to draw your attention to these fantastic sandals! A cross between a desert boot and a Roman sandal, they are exquisite. Wow!

https://www.balmain.com/en_us/