Sunday, January 13, 2013

BEAUTY: Clothing--Moncler Gamme Bleu

Wow. Thom Browne has taken Moncler Gamme Bleu, the legendary ski apparel house, to new heights with this dizzying fantasia on the Scottish Highlands. With the runway transformed into a winter wonderland full of frost-covered branches, strewn with the bodies of knights in full armor killed in battle by ski poles, and seething with fog, models sported William Wallace-style Scottish warrior face paint in Browne's signature red, white, and blue, and brandished said ski poles like broadswords. They also sported an incredible mash-up of Scottish tartans and knitwear, kilts, ski wear, and Thom Browne suits. In fact, four new tartans were created for this collection!

And what a delicious, heady collection it is! Kilts look as if they are made up of two different garments in two different tartans, sporrans are shaped into the Moncler logo, some kilts are actually shorts, and sport coats and suits and leggings are made of cable knit wool. There are some amazing cut and silhouette details too, such as overcoats, ponchos, and belted fencing-style jackets with one half featuring crisp pleats reminiscent of the rear of a kilt, and a kind of wrap/cape that looks like, for lack of a better comparison, a horse blanket, with flaps that fold up to the shoulders. I love every look here. This collection is just bubbling with creativity, vision, humor, and beauty. The best of Milano Moda Uomo so far... we'll see what Browne has up his sleeve for Paris next week!
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