Wednesday, June 15, 2016

BEAUTY: Clothing--Misc. London Collections: Men, SS '17

Here are some individual moments from London Collections: Men...

The exotica of Tibet, Nepal, and the Indian subcontinent seemed to be a Hundredth Monkey moment with Alexander McQueen (here), Craig Green (here), Casely-Hayford (here), and even Astrid Anderson getting into the act. Her tired basketball motif became nearly-interesting with the addition of malas or Buddhist prayer beads (both worn and carried by models), and an earthy palette punctuated with glorious fringed gold khata or Buddhist prayer scarves worn in the traditional way around the neck or at the waist as a sash.

Pringle of Scotland is known for their knitwear but for their SS '17 lookbook (they chose to forego an actual runway presentation at London Collections: Men this year--something that seems to be a trend among many designers--and instead will only show at the upcoming Pitti Uomo in Florence), they showed a denim jean that was entirely inspired by singer Morrissey of The Smiths. In the band's heyday of the mid-80s, Morrissey would come on stage with gladiola stalks stuffed in the back pocket of his worn, faded jeans, only to throw them out ecstatically to the crowd during the concert. The Pringle jeans have stitched and embroidered gladiola stalks which they paired with shirts and sweaters that could have been worn by Morrissey and creeper shoes worn by mid-80s youth.

For several seasons now, we've seen the skinny trouser amicably share space with the extra wide, voluminous trouser, and I don't think anyone has created a wider or more voluminous pant than newbie designer Per Götesson who, just the day before his catwalk show, graduated from the Royal Academy of Art! His "urban style" unfinished denim makes these jeans an enigma...

And finally, Patrick Grant at E. Tautz knows the way to my shoe-loving heart...he showed some marvelous T-strap sandals in black and white. I adore a T-strap sandal!

No comments: