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Fashion season starts in England with London Collections: Men (or LCM as it is known), and newly minted break out star Craig Green showed a fascinating Spring Summer '17 collection which utilizes his familiar Asian-inspired silhouette of very loose-fitting, literally deconstructed martial arts/Buddhist monk/Samurai pieces (previously here and here). Notice how sections of each garment are held together with lacing which, for purposes of the show, were undone, letting lower leg pieces dangle. But this time Green's creations were by way of what must be Tibet and Nepal. When Green himself spoke in large brushstrokes about inspiration for the collection (some designers are forthcoming about inspiration, some are vague, and some are downright deliberately obtuse), he cited garments flapping around the body like flags. But his collections usually flap and drape. The real story here is in the patterns, especially after several seasons of solid color, whether subdued or bright. An earthy pinstripe is a nice foil for a generous selection of lovely, intricate, dusty, ethnic-feeling prints worthy of Dries van Noten! But the bands of color here on quilted outerwear and tightly drawn hoods feel equally as Tibetan (previously here)--the pointed scarves tied around waists also resemble variations of the Nepali flag. In my imagination, I can see prayer flags and smell sandalwood incense...
I love the deconstructed detail of the last look here: it is like some kind of protective gear to be strapped on over other garments, only this model doesn't have any. Very reminiscent of the anti-war protest Green staged at his debut collection for Spring Summer '15 in which the battle uniform was coming off.
http://craig-green.com/
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