BEAUTY: Clothing--Nuba

The talent incubator Fashion East has been a fantastic force in the fashion world. Founded by Lulu Kennedy MBE, Fashion East has nurtured the likes of Kim Jones, Craig Green, Simone Rocha, Martine Rose, Wales Bonner, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Per Gotesson, J.W. Anderson, all of whom can be found featured on this blog! The organization takes on three designers at a time, and allows them to show three collections before rotating out to a different cast of designers.

Among the current crop is a new brand, Nuba, helmed by Jebi Labembika and Cameron Williams. Their Spring-Summer '25 collection shown at London Fashion Week is called "Smoke" and is based on Afro-Caribbean cultures but to my eyes, it looks as if they are simply enjoying working with their medium. Much like an abstract painter can create a work that explores and celebrates the element of paint, just letting it do what it is going to do on the canvas, the Nuba duo seem to be reveling in how fabric drapes and how pieces join to create shapes. Geometry alternates with flowing folds, creating a beautiful statement that is both contemporary and classical.

I can't find a dedicated site for their brand, but it looks like Ssense is an on-line stockist.
https://www.ssense.com/en-us/men/designers/nuba/clothing

BEAUTY: Clothing--Olly Shinder

The talent incubator Fashion East has been a fantastic force in the fashion world. Founded by Lulu Kennedy MBE, Fashion East has nurtured the likes of Kim Jones, Craig Green, Simone Rocha, Martine Rose, Wales Bonner, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Per Gotesson, J.W. Anderson, all of whom can be found featured on this blog! The organization takes on three designers at a time, and allows them to show three collections before rotating out to a different cast of designers.

The current crop of talent at Fashion East includes young designer Olly Shinder (previously here) who showed his SS '25 collection--his last under the Fashion East wing--at London Fashion Week. Shinder is inspired by his interaction with the underground gay fetish world. He told Vogue UK that his fascination lies in uniforms, and this collection, while still letting the fetish world peek out, was definitely more centered on the idea of a uniform being a vehicle to remove any traces of individuality for membership in a tribe or corps.

https://olly-shinder.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Olly Shinder

Since 2000, Fashion East has been a fantastic incubator for talent in the fashion world. Founded by Lulu Kennedy MBE, Fashion East has nurtured the likes of Kim Jones, Craig  Green, Simone Rocha, Martine Rose, Wales Bonner, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Per Gotesson, J.W. Anderson, all of whom can be found featured on this blog!

The current crop of talent at Fashion East includes young designer Olly Shinder who showed his FW '24-'25 collection at London Fashion Week. Shinder is inspired by his interaction with the underground gay fetish world. He told Vogue UK, "My fascination lies in uniforms with an underlying theme of kink. Delving into subcultures, I previously explored everyday uniforms. This season, I’ve taken the collection to the lab – think a bit scientist, a bit testing lab. I was drawn to the silhouettes of more extreme uniforms like hazmat suits, imagining how the fetish community might incorporate these pieces. Alongside, there are cotton and wool pieces reminiscent of ceremonial guards’ uniforms, with a more decorative flair evoking an old, classic English – perhaps aristocratic – aesthetic. My focus isn’t on specific places; I’m much more interested in a world of function, which is much more contemporary."

Fascinating.

Shinder does not have a site for his brand yet but you can follow him on Instagram.
https://www.instagram.com/olly.shinder