BEAUTY: Clothing--Federico Cina

Regular readers of "Oh, By The Way" know of the many reasons I find fashion design so compelling. As someone who finds the arts in general to be nourishing and vital, I think of "fashion" as "costume"--as a way to convey an idea or a concept. I appreciate what some designers do the same way one appreciates what an avant garde sculptor or painter or performance artist does. And in a way, these designers are performance artists. For me, it is not about what is hanging on racks in stores, but what these artists are creating and the ideas and concepts they are working with as an influence on their marvelous creativity. It is moving sculpture. It is theater. Fashion and clothing at this level serve as a kind of visual shorthand. A piece of clothing in the hands of a designer can evoke a place, a region, a country, a specific time or an entire era, a work of art such as a novel or film or painting, a class of people, even a social, financial, or spiritual element... and the combination of such pieces of clothing, as well as their harmony or contrast, can tell a fascinating story.

But every now and then, a designer tells a story that is deeply personal, and when that happens, I can't help but be touched. And new designer Federico Cina (he launched his brand only last year) mined his own life to come up with not only a collection but a philosophy for his brand's DNA. For virtual Milano Moda Uomo, he created a sweet SS '21 collection which references the trajectory of his entire life. To fully appreciate this story, please enjoy both videos here.

In a moving, poignant video exclusive to Milano Moda Uomo, he spoke about growing up wanting to leave the confines of his native Romagna to explore the world only to realize that he missed the authenticity and natural beauty of his home. I love hearing of his journey in life as well as in his creativity to synthesize the elements of his past and the history of Ramagna (including the storied Romagna printed cloth) with the idea of wearable clothing for 2021. It's quite beautiful.

And the second phase, the realization of his journey in this lovely, nostalgia-tinged vision of his childhood, adolescence, adulthood, and family. I was extremely moved when the three versions of himself came together at the end...

https://www.federicocina.it/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Han Kjøbenhavn

Han Kjøbenhavn was started in 2008 as an eyewear brand by designer Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen and soon expanded into clothing for men and women. The brand has not been on my radar before now, and I am entranced by what I see...

A futuristic statement, or perhaps a concept of life from another planet or a parallel universe, Davidsen twists and enhances the human form into something transhuman. Those shapes are just amazing. I love the shoulders but I really love the enormous, wide-legged wader boots in both a tall and ankle boot form! Wowsa!

And I love the highly atmospheric, chilling film showing these transhumans/aliens hiding in a subterranean world, for what I perceive as their safety. One of them says, "Be kind to my siblings--as we dare to encounter you."

https://hankjobenhavn.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Andrea Pompilio

For his Spring Summer 2021 collection for virtual Milano Moda Uomo, Andrea Pompilio presented a video that did not feature any garments...indeed it is billed as "NOT A FASHION MOVIE BY GIULIA ACHENZA." Instead, it plays like a collaged, abstract manifesto on how to survive the rest of 2020 and hopefully into 2021. Pompilio has always been playfully subversive but desperate times call for desperate measures.

"When new sceneries
open, a shock over the shock is
needed to come out and born again.
Renewed, Regenerated, Awakened
from constraints, we take ourselves
back to life.
The research of our bodies and souls
begins"

https://andreapompilio.it/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Misc. Milano Moda Uomo

Well, that was interesting. London, Paris, and Milan Fashion Weeks in a digital, virtual format (save for Etro here and Dolce and Gabbana here). The new format afforded some designers an opportunity to include more in their collections, and swing wider to include more in their respective orbits as it were.

Here are a few little details I noticed from the Spring Summer 2021 collections and presentations that are worth noting:

For his brand JieDa, Japanese designer Hiroyuki Fujita showed an interesting shirt with a very wide placket that hides--or not--a necktie. It all feels a little Zoot Suit-y and a little Western...

The Milanese brand Edithmarcel, founded in 2015 by Gianluca Ferracin and Andrea Masato, respectively from the world of Fashion Design and Architecture, showed a playful collection that relied on imagery that echoes the work of 80s artist and illustrator Patrick Nagel (famous for the cover of the Duran Duran album "Rio"). Take a look and see if you agree that, if used without consultation, Nagel's estate might need some compensation...

http://jieda.jp/
https://edithmarcel.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Ferragamo

The house of Ferragamo created a PRE-Spring Summer 2021 collection for virtual Milano Moda Uomo...and while it is a men's and women's collection (which I generally do not show) and while there is no lookbook, and while the accompanying video doesn't really show off the clothing until the very end, I do want to share it because it is a surprisingly moving, inspiring, and impressive mini-history of the brand and what they represent. Really quite lovely. Only 3 minutes and change. Take a look.

And if you are so inclined, you can take a great virtual tour of the Museo Ferragamo located in the Palazzo Spini Feroni at the Piazza di Santa Trinita in Florence. It features a collection of Ferragamo shoes and clothing but also some interesting pieces of art. Click on the photo or the link below it, then follow the arrows to discover the interior of the museum.

https://www.ferragamo.com/museo/en/usa/virtual-tour

https://www.ferragamo.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Magliano

For Milano Moda Uomo virtual, Magliano created a video with a warped soundtrack and an absolutely hilarious and surreal narration (a hybrid of Fellini's Catholicism and David Lynch's poetry) about the clothing and models in this Spring Summer 2021 collection, featuring some fascinating pieces in a kind of neon/hippie/thrift store vibe (a jacket with a nylon lining to display a dollar bill and a porn photo!).

https://www.magliano.website/

BEAUTY: Clothing--KidSuper

Alrighty then, Paris Fashion Week has wrapped and we move on to Milano Moda Uomo...but let's look at a last few fun moments from France.

Colm Dillane's KidSuper brand is a collective--while he is the Creative Director, he collaborates on not only his clothing line, but also his many other ventures: he paints and does art shows, records music, and makes music videos. So this video for his Springs Summer '21 collection for virtual Paris Fashion Week is pretty kicky, not only because this is his debut collection accepted under The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode--during a global pandemic no less--but also because the video is a delightful stop motion animated runway show with famous people in the audience as well as on the runway (keep an eye out for the Obamas, Picasso, Salvador Dali, Jackie Chan, Muhammad Ali, Stephen Hawking, Freddie Mercury, and of course Anna Wintour!). And the patchwork, hand painted pieces, once they are human-sized, will be wild and fun.

https://kidsuper.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Loewe

J. W. Anderson presented his Spring Summer 2021 collection in what he called a "Show In A Box," seen here...the box includes pieces of fabrics featured in the collection along with inspirational cards and pressed flowers, and of course many different sized images of the garments themselves. And since Anderson is also the current Creative Director of venerable Spanish brand Loewe (founded in 1846!), he curated a "Show In A Box" for this SS '21 collection as well. I love the knitwear aspect in Anderson's work, and of course the accent on the idea of artisans and handcrafted elements is earnest and engaging. It is a lovely, moving idea that feels nourishing for this time. Watch the video and look at that gorgeous shibori shirt.

https://www.loewe.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Rick Owens

The inimitable Rick Owens showed not one but two collections, side by side, in a very intimate presentation. The first is for "Performa," the fall 2020 collection he showed in January but whose distribution had since been shut down due to COVID. The next is for a new collection titled "Phlegethon," after the river of molten fire that Dante said swept the agonized damned through the seventh circle. Both collections are shown on Rick's friend/muse Tyrone Dylan Susman. It's just the two of them in the Owens studio, trying looks on...

https://www.rickowens.eu/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Yohji Yamamoto

I can never resist a Yohji Yamamoto collection. A bit English Edwardian gentleman, a bit punk ruffian, a bit Japanese workwear. This great SS '21 collection video for virtual Paris Fashion Week is full of some marvelous details like eyeball buttons (like something Dali would have created!), lacing, and superb trench coats featuring labels/silk screened images and loose threads.

https://theshopyohjiyamamoto.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--EGONlab.

EGONlab., the design duo consisting of life and business partners Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix, showed a SS '21 collection at virtual Paris Fashion Week that featured some awesome lace ups boots as well as lace up garments. And some A shirts with cut outs à la Rick Owens. Never a bad thing.

EGONlab.

"WE SEE OURSELVES AS VISUAL ARTISTS. EACH COLLECTION WANTS TO PRESERVE THE AESTHETICS THAT A WORK OF ART MUST PROVOKE."

EGONLAB IS A FRENCH EMERGING BRAND WHOSE VISUAL EYE IS DEEPLY INSPIRED BY ARTISTIC MOVEMENTS AND WHICH HAVE GREATLY INFLUENCED OUR MODERN SOCIETY.

EACH COLLECTION WILL SHOWCASE AN ARTISTIC RE-INTERPRETATION OF THESE REVOLUTIONS AND THE RIPPLE EFFECTS FOLLOWING THEIR FRUITION.

MERGING FASHION, MUSIC, MOTION DESIGN, AND MIXED MEDIA ART -EGONLAB IS A ONE OF A KIND BRAND AND A MOVEMENT IN ITSELF, ONE WHO OFFERS A FULLY IMMERSIVE AND COMPLETE UNIQUE EXPERIENCE TO ITS CONSUMERS.

https://egonlab.fr/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Berluti

Paris Fashion Week in a virtual presentation, adjusted for COVID. And I am delighted that, unlike London Fshion Week, it seems to be working quite well! But to be fair, London was right up against the quarantine and was not able to really take the time needed to assemble something of this magnitude. Paris has had an extra few months as have the designers offering videos of their collections. It has been wonderful to see so far...so let's dive right in.

Inspiration. Collaboration. Conversation.
Head of the venerable brand Berluti Kris Van Assche and ceramicist Brian Rochefort (previously here!) speak about working together in this surprisingly engaging interview showing a very satisfying, organically textured Spring Summer '21 collection for Paris Fashion Week.

And just look at how those classic Berluti shoes are hand stained!

https://www.berluti.com/
https://brianrochefort.net/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Walter Van Beirendonck

Walter Van Beirendonck. Spring Summer '21. Virtual Paris Fashion Week.
The collection is entitled Mirror, references shamanistic practice, and contains panels of mirrored fabric. Oh, and it is in miniature presented on amazing mannequins.

Soundtrack by the marvelous Perfume Genius, previously here!

https://www.waltervanbeirendonck.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--Oteyza

Spanish brand Oteyza (founded by Caterina Paneda and Paul García) presented an elegant Spring Summer 2021 collection for virtual Paris Fashion Week. The designers have made their names by reinventing Spanish elements like capes and hats with a modern vision and this collection feels like a cross between New Romantic looks of the 80s and Japanese architectural clothing...those collars, those hats! Lovely.

https://deoteyza.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--J.W. Anderson

JW ANDERSON PREVIEWS MS21 + RS21 PHOTOBOOK FOR PARIS FASHION WEEK British luxury brand JW Anderson will premiere exclusive video footage and still images to the Paris Fashion Week platform. The brand originally revealed their Men’s Spring Summer 2021 collection via a phygital experience: a physical “Show in a Box” delivered to journalists, editors, buyers, VIPS, etc around the world and a digital reveal on 2 July featuring a video of Founder and Creative Director Jonathan Anderson explaining the inspiration behind, and contents of, the box. “The idea is that you can tell and experience the story in your own way. At your own pace. It’s about going back to making and telling stories,” Jonathan said. With this idea of exploration and storytelling in mind, photographer Lewis Ronald captured multidisciplinary artist Carlos Maria Romero in a London home as he experienced the show in a box for the first time. Shot entirely in black and white, the photographs will be curated into a photobook to be released by the brand at a later date. For Paris Fashion week JW Anderson will premiere a video teaser from the photo shoot as well as an exclusive selection of six images.

https://www.jwanderson.com/

BEAUTY: Clothing--CMMN SWDN

For Paris Fashion Week, here is a lovely SS '21 collection from CMMN SWDN (husband and wife duo Saif Bakir and Emma Bakir Hedlund) that certainly evokes images of Van Gogh's wheat fields. The pieces are easy breezy with great touches like flowing trousers with inverted pleats at the leg and hem, and beautiful embroidery...all worn with malas.

Wheat Field With A Lark by Vincent van Gogh

Wheat Field With Reaper and Sun by Vincent van Gogh

Wheat Field With Crows by Vincent van Gogh

https://cmmn-swdn.com/

Lockdown List of Museums To Visit

Before much of the world was on lockdown, Google created an amazing platform for virtual visits to iconic museums around the world. Now, if you're under a stay-indoors order (and even if you aren't, you should be staying inside as much as possible and avoiding contact with others) there is an entire world of art at your fingetips. Just move your mouse to explore global treasures! Click on a photo to go to that museum's virtual page through Google Arts and Culture.

Musée d'Orsay
I remember when much of this museum's pieces were located in The Orangerie at the end of the Tuileries Gardens. But in 1986, the former Gare d'Orsay, a Beaux-Arts railway station built between 1898 and 1900, was remodeled as a museum and opened to take in the collection. The museum holds mainly French art dating from 1848 to 1914 which, thankfully, includes all of the Impressionist period!

The British Museum
This is one of my personal favorites. When I stay in London, I like to make home base in the Bloomsbury neighborhood and The British Museum is this area's centerpiece. I have spent many happy hours here gazing at the dazzling sites...they have the Elgin Marbles, as well as The Rosetta Stone for crying out loud.

Gallerie degli Uffizi
The Uffizi Gallery located in a glorious building by the River Arno in Florence has a splendid collection. I remember very well the first time I was there and saw Caravaggio's The Adolescent Bacchus.

Tate Britain
London is a tale of two Tates. Tate Modern is an imposing building on the Thames that used to be a power plant but now houses a dizzying collection of modern art. But Tate Britain, one of the largest museums in England, is a fabulous collection in a classical structure that opened on 21 July, 1897 as the National Gallery of British Art. It houses a substantial collection of the art of the United Kingdom since Tudor times, and in particular has large holdings of the works of J. M. W. Turner (I have stood in silent awe in the Turner wing in the presence of his grand, hazy masterpieces), who bequeathed all his own collection to the nation. Unfortunately, I don't see The Turner Wing as part of this virtual tour but there are many, many famous pieces of art here including Sir John Everett Millais' Ophelia and John Singer Sargent's breathtaking Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art
There is a LOT to see at The Met in New York City. The image you see below is an entire wing dedicated solely to housing The Temple of Dendur, an Ancient Egyptian temple built by the Roman governor of Egypt, Petronius, around 15 BC and relocated to The Met from Egypt to save it from being submerged by Lake Nasser, following construction of the Aswan High Dam. It's one of the many treasures that live in this crucial, modern temple to art and culture.

In addition to museums, Google Arts and Culture also features spectacular monuments, like The Eiffel Tower. Take a look at Paris from the second floor...you can even spot the entrance to The Jules Verne restaurant!

If you'd like to scroll through the complete listing of what museums Google Arts and Culture has to offer, go here:
https://artsandculture.google.com/partner
or visit the main page to search other sections such as Mediums, Art Movements, or Places.
https://artsandculture.google.com/explore