Sunday, January 12, 2020

BEAUTY: Clothing--Emporio Armani

It's hard to exaggerate the contribution of Giorgio Armani to fashion history. Along with names who changed silhouettes and shapes and ushered in new cuts and styles and materials, Armani takes his place in the pantheon. It is also hard to think that Giorgio Armani is 85 years old. And while he claims he has little to do with the day to day running of his empire, I find that hard to believe as well. I have a soft spot for Armani designs...it has a bit to do with my age, when I grew up, the film "American Gigolo" for which Armani made the clothing, but also the fact that Armani has managed to stay relevant and creative over such a long span. His designs rely on classic tailoring but also a vague sense of historical--and sometimes ethnic--clothing. Each season I approach an Armani collection thinking, "Well, this will be the same ol' same ol'" and you'd think I would have learned by now that there is usually some spark in an Armani collection, some something, an elan, that hooks me and makes me study each piece, each detail. Armani is simply a master.

This 2020-2021 Fall Winter collection from Emporio Armani (the casual sportier line next to the actual Giorgio Armani label) shown at Milano Moda Uomo was a subtle yet sumptuous delight...a neutral color palette (something expected from Armani but unexpected in the combination of black and red), deft pattern pairings, gorgeous use of contrasting fabrics like silk with wool, a smattering of eased eveningwear, a section of fascinating piumino (a puffer coat to those of us in the English speaking world) including a puffer shrug (!), and a last section of clothing from all upcycled material. This kind of environmentally forward thinking is needed in the fashion industry (in the last few years, much has come to light about how phenomenally wasteful clothing manufacturers can be) and of course Armani would be among those leading the way. It is not surprising since the house went entirely fur-free in 2016. Thank you, Giorgio!


https://www.armani.com/us/armanicom/unisex/emporio-armani/cross_section

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