BEAUTY: Clothing--Rick Owens

Oh, how I love the clothing of Rick Owens (previously HERE). I don't think there is anyone of his caliber, much less of his singular vision working today. His minimalist/sci-fi alien/monastic/rock and roll/architectural/futurist sensibility never fails to delight. And for this Fall-Winter '20-'21 collection titled PERFORMA at Paris Fashion Week, there were delights including an homage to another designer who created for rock royalty, a lot of skin, and intriguing colors and combinations!

For his last Fall-Winter collection entitled LARRY, Owens built a glorious homage to rock and roll outfitter Larry LeGaspi who made iconic looks for LaBelle, KISS, and Grace Jones. And this time, he looks to Japanese designer Kansai Yamamoto who designed iconic looks for David Bowie during his Ziggy Stardust period. Playing off a one shoulder/one leg body suit Bowie wore for stage performances, Owens sent out models in iterations made of cashmere (one must keep warm in the fall and winter, after all). In fact, the opening look, a neutral version of Bowie's suit was worn by Owens' friend, collaborator, designer (and Rick body double) Tyrone Dylan Susman. Other garments reference other Bowie/Yamamoto creations too, like slim white stripes on black, large shoulder structures, and glam platform boots with steel soles (a continuation of the spectacular perspex-heeled platform boots from LARRY, and I am just salivating for a pair from either collection)...all through the Rick Owens lens. And look at his use of color for this collection! The powder blue is an unexpected hue for Owens but see how it really makes sense when paired with the persimmon we see below. And the biggest surprise: mango and lemon...with a pattern that looks like a snake slithered through paint and left scale prints on a white ground.

But there is a sexiness to this collection as well, with bared thighs and shoulders, and deep-vee/sternum enhancing tops as favored by Owens of late. Owens talked about "graphics of exposed flesh" carved by his cut-out cashmere garments. He said, "I was a lot more introspective 10 years ago. And, you know, I think as you get older, you just get a little more reckless, more comfortable, more confident, more playful...I'm here, you know. You’re invited to the party, bring something. And that’s what I’m trying to do...The most reassuring thing you can do as far as fashion is concerned, I think, is to streamline it. I’m looking at the graphics of exposed flesh. And, I’m going through my own exposed flesh moment, which I wouldn’t have done a while ago. It’s just a grim determination to make the best of what you’ve got. Which I think is the most moral thing anybody can do."

Here are the Kansai Yamamoto inspirations as worn by Bowie in 1973:

And as a gossipy aside, it's fun that Tyrone Dylan and Owens seem to enjoy each other's company a lot. But I know Rick is devoted to Michele...

https://www.rickowens.eu/