BEAUTY: Clothing--Rick Owens

Rick Owens presented his first live show in Paris with an audience since COVID! This Spring-Summer 2022 women's collection entitled Fogachine (to partner with the men's version of the same name, seen here) is drape-y, glamorous, and sexy. Indeed, fashion journalist Sarah Mower at Vogue said, "Carpe diem, then, and on with a spectacle that pushed everything in the Owens arsenal of accomplishments to its creative best. Who else can signal the siren glamor of old Hollywood draping, sculpt wildly freeform shapes from haute couture materials and fuse it all together into such a modern armory of erotic power? If we’re talking about sex and body-exposure this season—and everyone is—then Rick Owens is the past-master of all that. The empowering art of his cutaways to skin never looked more faultlessly engineered, wired into bra-tops with no central fixing, structured into stretch bodysuits glimpsed through sheer layers and multi-strapped into thigh-high gladiatorial robo-boots."

The Master's own show notes say:
SS22 FOGACHINE WOMEN’STHURSDAY 30 SEPTEMBER 2021, 12H00PALAIS DE TOKYO, 13 AVENUE DU PRÉSIDENT WILSON, 75116 PARIS
AFTER FOUR COVID ERA SHOWS LIVESTREAMED FROM MY HOME ON VENEZIA’S LIDO BEACH, RETURNING BOMBASTICALLY AT FULL BLAST TO THE PALAIS DE TOKYO PARVIS SEEMED TO IGNORE THE HUMBLING EXPERIENCE WE ALL WENT THROUGH TOGETHER; AND ARE STILL EXPERIENCING. THOSE COVID SHOWS WERE ABOUT DEFIANT FEROCITY IN THE FACE OF ADVERSITY BUT SHOULD RETURNING TO THE PARIS RUNWAYS BE ABOUT HUMILITY AND A LESSON LEARNED? OR CARPE DIEM?

THERE IS A BRISK LOGIC TO THE PURSUIT OF BEAUTY ABOVE ALL ELSE THAT HAS ALWAYS APPEALED TO ME AND THE ENDLESS HONING AND REFINING OF CREATIVE SIGNATURES IN THOSE THAT I HAVE ALWAYS ADMIRED. FOCUSING ON THAT SEEMED LIKE THE RIGHT MOVE.

SCULPTED BODYSUITS IN BLACK MATTE LACQUERED STRETCH DENIM ARE PEELED DOWN TO FORM ABSTRACT SKIRTS AND WORN OVER PLATFORM THIGH HIGH WADERS NOW SLICED INTO SPINDLY SPARTAN BOOTS... WORN WITH EASY T-SHIRTS SPLICED WITH THE THINNEST NYLON THAT FLOATS IN THE AIR LIKE THE FOG THIS COLLECTION WAS NAMED AFTER.
TAILORING HAS CRISP, SHARP SHOULDERS IN MICROJACKETS, OR COATS WITH THE SIDES CARVED OUT IN AN HOURGLASS SHAPE — CUT IN COTTON ORGANDY AND SILK MOUSSELINE TO EXPOSE THE COMPLEXITY OF THE STRUCTURAL INTERLININGS BENEATH.

GEOMETRIC CUTOUTS BLUNTLY EXPOSE FLESH AT TIMES WHILE ROBES AND CLOAKS CUT IN FLOWING COQ FEATHER ENCRUSTED TULLE OR RIGID COTTON FAILLE SOLEMNLY CONCEAL.
LEATHER AND NYLON BOMBERS OUTLINE THE FEMALE EQUIVALENT OF LE CORBUSIER’S MODULAR MAN AND ARE WORN OVER FLARED JEAN SKIRTS IN 16OZ BLACK, NATURAL, OR ORANGE SELVEDGE DENIM CUSTOM WOVEN FOR US BY YAMAASHI ORIMONO (EST. 1945) ON VINTAGE SAKAMOTO SHUTTLE LOOMS. THIS IS FROM AN ONGOING DRKSHDW CAPSULE MADE IN KURASHIKI, OKAYAMA PREFECTURE, JAPAN.
GIRDERED BUBBLE JKTS WITH HARD, STRONG SHOULDERS AND RUCHED CHIFFON BODIES PROVIDE ARCHITECTURAL CONFECTION IN SOLID BRIGHTS OR SOFT BLEEDING DÉGRADÉS.
MULTICOLORED MOHAIR SPIDERWEB KNITS COVER THE BODY IN DRIPPING LAYERS OF REMOVABLE ARMS AND HOODS.

BRUTALIST CHOKERS ARE FROM AN ONGOING JEWELRY COLLECTION PRODUCED BY GOOSSENS, THE MAISON THAT ONCE PRODUCED JEWELRY FOR COCO CHANEL, CRISTÓBAL BALENCIAGA, AND MADAME GRÈS IN THE 1950S.
PERSONAL NON-TOXIC FOG MACHINES COME IN 3 SIZES — SMALL TO INSERT INTO THE ZIPPED POCKETS OF PYTHON GLOVES, A CARRY ON SIZE, AND A COFFEE TABLE SIZE.
WE CONTINUE INCLUDING JKTS AND BAGS IN PIRARUCU DRAGON SCALE LEATHER, A FOOD BYPRODUCT PRODUCED BY INDIGENOUS COMMUNITIES IN BRAZIL.

DENIMS NOT COMING FROM OUR JAPAN CAPSULE ARE GOTS CERTIFIED ORGANIC COTTON FROM A LOCAL ITALIAN MILL FOUNDED IN 1597.

MODELS WALK THROUGH FALLING JASMINE LEAVES GATHERED FROM THE PLANTS ON MY LIDO TERRACE IN MEMORY OF OUR COVID SHOWS THERE.

THE SOUNDTRACK IS A CUSTOM REMIX BY MOCHIPET — A DISTORTED SOUNDSCAPE OF HARDNESS THAT REFLECTS THE CURT DETERMINED HEDONISM OF THE MOMENT, AND MY WARINESS OF IT.

https://www.rickowens.eu/