Of the collection, Van Noten said, "We wanted to make it a study of elegance. To make it very masculine. So we asked what is masculinity now? And how we can make elegance also young, and interesting to the young?... I think streetwear is one thing, and it’s fantastic, but I also think people want more ways to dress to express who they are, and to enjoy."
Indeed, we are seeing quite an adjustment to the vernacular of menswear across the board, from all designers. I think the parameters have shifted. It is no longer unusual to see a designer send a "skirt for a man" down the runway. They are now just called skirts: no one gasps anymore. And this season so far we have seen many designers who are playing with the contrast of suiting against a sense of flou with one-shouldered organza tops or sheer button-ups or pullovers (Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, EGONlab). This adjusted vernacular is the introduction of garments that used to be thought of as only for women, but scaled and fit for men. Here, Van Noten folds long skirts and tunic dresses into some truly stunning, loose and sensuous suiting options (I love the extremely generous cut of the trousers!). I adore how these suits are cut and how they are worn...with a slinky sense of sprezzatura. We see several sheer tops, silks, and even sequins (see the shirts in looks 12 and 25, and shorts in look 13--sequins in anyone else's hands could end feeling a little lurid but Van Noten manages to use them as beautiful texture) yet notice the fantastic use of wool herringbone! The delicious color palette (russet, plum, pumpkin, caramel, mustard, bronze) brings this all together. Masterful.
https://www.driesvannoten.com/
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