Sunday, January 25, 2026
BEAUTY: Clothing--Dries Van Noten
After Dries Van Noten's emotional retirement from his house after 38 years (see his final collection here), Julian Klausner is now Creative Director. And the FW '26-'27 collection he presented at Paris Fashion Week holds true to the DNA of the house with an emphasis on the mixing of subtle and complicated patterns, along with a mastery of unexpected colors and combinations. But he deliberately brought in the knitwear section of the house, noting that it had been a while since a collection featured knits.
His inspiration for the look of the collection is rather sweet: he was thinking of young men transitioning from home to life on their own in college and what those first new steps look like with a cobbled together (and maybe thrifted?) wardrobe...and putting things together with an eye toward looking "grown up" but still with an exuberance of youth. Klausner said, "In this second men’s collection, I wanted to explore the idea of coming of age. Not in a dramatic or romantic way, but praising the joy of new beginnings. The unfolding of possibilities; the naivety and the honesty of the first experiments with self out of the comfort zone. It’s the idea of coming of age, growing up from being a teenager, exploring the world, leaving the home, taking the things you love with you, hand-me-downs, your granddad’s coats, your childhood blazer."
Indeed, there is an echo of the younger schoolboy here (at a quick glance, the skirts can be confused for schoolboy shorts) but coupled with pieces like pencil coats and neck ties. I adore how 70s this collection looks without actually referencing the 70s. The striped knit shirt in Looks #3 and #4 make me think of shirts I wore that looked just like that...oh, but that was many years ago. Also of note is the mash-up of Faire Isle prints on sweaters, as though four or five different sweaters had been cut up and patched together in vertical sections. And I am entranced by the paper bag pants with a drawstring, shown with a contrasting top section so that it looks as if one is wearing a cummerbund or a peplum attached to the shirt above...see Looks #16, #18, #21, and #22. At the close of the collection, we see the Faire Isle motif return but this time beaded on coats and sweaters in Looks #32 to #35.
And let's take a moment to look at some amazing shoes from this collection...flat lace ups in mock snakeskin and other patterns. I covet each of them.
https://www.driesvannoten.com/
His inspiration for the look of the collection is rather sweet: he was thinking of young men transitioning from home to life on their own in college and what those first new steps look like with a cobbled together (and maybe thrifted?) wardrobe...and putting things together with an eye toward looking "grown up" but still with an exuberance of youth. Klausner said, "In this second men’s collection, I wanted to explore the idea of coming of age. Not in a dramatic or romantic way, but praising the joy of new beginnings. The unfolding of possibilities; the naivety and the honesty of the first experiments with self out of the comfort zone. It’s the idea of coming of age, growing up from being a teenager, exploring the world, leaving the home, taking the things you love with you, hand-me-downs, your granddad’s coats, your childhood blazer."
Indeed, there is an echo of the younger schoolboy here (at a quick glance, the skirts can be confused for schoolboy shorts) but coupled with pieces like pencil coats and neck ties. I adore how 70s this collection looks without actually referencing the 70s. The striped knit shirt in Looks #3 and #4 make me think of shirts I wore that looked just like that...oh, but that was many years ago. Also of note is the mash-up of Faire Isle prints on sweaters, as though four or five different sweaters had been cut up and patched together in vertical sections. And I am entranced by the paper bag pants with a drawstring, shown with a contrasting top section so that it looks as if one is wearing a cummerbund or a peplum attached to the shirt above...see Looks #16, #18, #21, and #22. At the close of the collection, we see the Faire Isle motif return but this time beaded on coats and sweaters in Looks #32 to #35.
And let's take a moment to look at some amazing shoes from this collection...flat lace ups in mock snakeskin and other patterns. I covet each of them.
https://www.driesvannoten.com/
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