Like so many other houses and brands this season, both here in Paris as well as Milan, Juun J. gave a strong showing for men's suiting...but of course not traditional suiting. We don't live in a Brooks Brothers world anymore (if any of us ever did). The suit of 2026 is skewed, exaggerated, titled, asymmetrical, embellished with sartorial details from other traditions or eras or grafted onto other garments all together. And Juun J. showed a collection that brought all of that to the runway.
The designer has always been interested in deconstructing classic menswear but this outing shows an almost opposite approach in a literal sense: constructing classic menswear, specifically the tuxedo, in a way that builds it up, inflating it, with larger and larger shapes until these looks feel as though they might be forged from metal or fiberglass. Shiny materials and leather help that illusion. In fact, it reminds me of Bowie's legendary appearance on Saturday Night Live where Joey Arias and Klaus Nomi carried him to his microphone because he could not move in the enormous, PVC-molded suit he wore.
Juun J. explores more options though, showing stiff suits and ruffled shirts in denim as well! And then about three-quarters through, the collection sends up some pattern and color (look at the wild floral tux and matching shirt in Look #17!), concluding with pieces made in collaboration with Alpinestars Reserve (RSRV), a company that produces motorcycle and motocross leathers!
http://www.juunj.com/
https://www.alpinestars.com/pages/rsrv
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