IM as it is now known is the continuation of the brand started by legendary Japanese designer Issey Miyake in 1970. Miyake, who died in 2022, was highly influential in clothing design and I honestly don't think we would have the likes of Rick Owens or Boris Bidjan Saberi or Damir Doma or Craig Green or even Haider Ackermann without him. The menswear division is now headed by a trio of designers--Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura and Nobutaka Kobayashi--who created a comforting Fall Winter '26-'27 collection at Paris Fashion Week. Miyake was known for creating garments that presented themselves more as buildings or shelters, playing with material and shape to make that happen. And this collection carried on that tradition... sheltering and cocooning seems perfect for a winter collection.
The overarching idea for the palette comes from sunrises and sunsets. The first many looks are dark, reflecting the dark of night and then veers into grey, brown, blue, then an explosion of white. The rest of the looks express a gorgeous array of colors meant to evoke sunsets...especially Look #19 with its peach, grey, and teal strata of light.
But back to the shapes of the garments themselves--we see an exquisite, restrained minimalism, a hallmark for Miyake. There are some light moments like the extra long neck ties and the very present storm flaps on trenches. The powerful simplicity of each silhouette -even the ones heaped with fabric--is breathtaking: after all, the collection is titled "Formless Form."
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