BEAUTY: Clothing--Y/Project

I've loved the voluminous, slouchy, puffy silhouette and cut of collections from Y/Project (Glenn Martens) for a while now and while it can be argued that he has always been a Mannerist, he has ramped up the twisting and folding and excess fabric for this SS '20 collection at Paris Fashion Week. Journalist Luke Leitch wittily remarked, "There is an echo in the work of Glenn Martens’s Y/Project of Vivienne Westwood’s 'Drunken Tailoring.' However the distortions achieved by Martens are much more extreme, much more mind-twisting, much more perception-altered: Call it 'Acid Tailoring,' maybe."

His interest in obscuring and deconstructing the body is an exercise in adventure. New shapes and scales surprise the eyes and mind. Lapels are bigger on one side than the other, jackets button asymmetrically, sweaters are ruched up the body, sleeves are longer than needed and sewn on the garment far forward, fanny packs are nearly unrecognizable as they circle the entire torso like an inner tube, plackets wind and twist up the body, shirts bag and bunch in unexpected places, and one side of a trouser waist has so much excess fabric that it flops over the belt exposing its lining. It's all dizzying and sideways and humorous and puzzling...and fascinating.

https://www.yproject.fr/