Saturday, January 16, 2021

BEAUTY: Clothing--Ermenegildo Zegna

The first offering at Milano Moda Uomo for the Fall-Winter '21-'22 season is from Ermenegildo Zegna. Creative director Alessandro Sartori and his team devised a new fabric of cashmere jersey in which to execute much of this loose, comfortable collection shown on both men and women, some mature (ageism is the last hurdle for the industry). The pandemic and work-from-home Zoom meetings have driven a further nail or two into the coffin of traditional business attire, and for this collection entitled "The (Re)Set," Sartori offers a slight nod to traditional details like lapels notched high at the collarbone and buttonable cuffs (along with blown-up, distorted versions of that classic menswear staple, the houndstooth check), but these appear on futuristic, monochromatic pieces like belted, kimono-style jackets and roomy, origami-shaped tops. These are daytime pajamas that can be worn out. But who goes out anymore? In fact, the theme of the film presentation is indoors (a bit of a David Lynchian surreal set of twelve rooms) vs. outdoors (modern Milanese locations like Piazza Olivetti, the new Bocconi campus, and Zegna’s own headquarters) and the juxtaposition of those two ideas. Watch: the film is obliquely thought-provoking if you see the patterns.

 

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