Sunday, January 24, 2021

BEAUTY: Clothing--JW Anderson

Jonathan Anderson, of his eponymous brand JW Anderson, has been effected by the pandemic, like many of us. During quarantine/lockdown/stay-at-home/shelter-in-place, many have had time, for the first time in a while, to think, take stock, reassess, realize, and hopefully understand. As he says, he and his team were playing with new ideas within gender, within fabrication, and how collections are shown--the ideas of experimentation, simplicity, reduction, and handmade craft.

And this genderless Fall Winter 21-22 collection for Paris Fashion Week (it seems odd to call it Paris Fashion Week when it is all digital and could happen anywhere), photographed by legendary fine art and fashion photographer Juergen Teller, shows all that. Mohair sweater dresses with integrated nylon belts, unusual dyed shearling tabards, silver hand screened onto English wool, hand crocheted radishes stitched onto mohair sweaters, and incredibly wide cut trousers. A harder sell is going to be the jersey dress with balloon sleeves for men...not so much because of any cross-dressing phobia but simply because of the shapeless nature of the body..it just doesn't seem that flattering. But I do appreciate the vegetable imagery, the felted shapes on sweater tops, and the wonderful swollen chain detail on the loafers shown with a head of broccoflower!



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