Saturday, January 20, 2024

BEAUTY: Clothing--Comme des Garçons

Rei Kawakubo never explains herself for her Comme des Garçons collections. Sometimes the references one can glean from the visuals of the garments themselves are deep and layered, other times they are purposely absurd and humor-filled. So this Fall-Winter '24-'25 collection at Paris Fashion Week arrived with nary an explanation, as usual. Her show notes are generally cryptic and this one simply read: "SPIRITUAL WORLD. White is symbolic of prayer."

Okay. And what of prayer? What is it but an entreaty to some higher power for protection or salvation from something? And what would one be praying about at this particular point in time, in this particular world?

What to make of the white wigs on all the models? The opening section was an exploration of white, certainly, but we have a direction change into some black suits with mother of pearl button details, bringing to mind the British Pearlies, a phenomenon that can be traced back to the late 1870s where men and women wore suits adorned with pearl buttons to draw attention to the charities for which they were raising money. Charity, help, empathy...the action that can result from prayer. The next two sections presented looks on models wearing Phrygian caps, a type of hat that is associated with freedom and liberty, especially in the French and American revolutions. In fact, the cap is often referred to as a Liberty Cap. Garments in this section included skirts and what appear to be Victorian tiered bloomers, adding some softness. We wrap up with suiting but like so many designers this season, Kawakubo found typical Comme des Garçons ways to deconstruct and distort, making the jackets seem not like jackets at all. In fact, Journalist Sarah Mower of Vogue said, "There’s not even a shadow of toxic masculinity, militarism or aggression inside Rei Kawakubo’s woman-designed Comme des Garçons universe. If only that could be true of the world outside."

White is symbolic of prayer.


https://www.comme-des-garcons.com/

No comments: