Wednesday, January 17, 2024

BEAUTY: Clothing--Giorgio Armani

Oh, Armani, Armani. I waxed rhapsodic about the legendary Giorgio Armani in my last post for Emporio Armani here, so ditto for this glorious Fall-Winter 2024-2025 collection he showed at Milano Moda Uomo. It is full of the kind of exquisite tailoring, cuts, and silhouettes for which he is rightfully known. Just look at how all of these garments lay on the body and fall...it is the epitome of refined luxury.

It's hard to exaggerate the contribution of Giorgio Armani to fashion history. Along with names who changed silhouettes and shapes and ushered in new cuts and styles and materials, Armani takes his place in the pantheon. I have a personal soft spot for Armani designs...it has a bit to do with my age and when I grew up (seeing Armani clothing first hand in the 70s and 80s), and the film "American Gigolo" for which Armani made the clothing, but also the fact that Armani has managed to stay relevant and creative over such a long span. He deconstructed the men's suit in the 80s, turning it into something soft and sensual, something sexy and flowing, without altering the basic concept of what it was. He removed layers of felting inside suits, making them relaxed and able to behave like thin silk; making a suit soft and casual with a sense of effortless power. This revolution rippled out into the industry and we see its waves even now: designers still grapple with ways to make suiting less stiff, to make clothing more luxe without being precious, and to make pieces with more innate ease without being sloppy. In short, to make clothes more Armani. But no one does Armani like Armani. Clean lined and impeccably tailored, Armani's sensibility is about luxe fabrics and the way a garment hangs and drapes on the body (of both men and women).

Yes, his designs rely on classic tailoring but also a vague sense, a shadow, an echo of historical fashion. The way a jacket or coat is cut or its stance, the inclusion of waistcoats, belted outerwear, loose cut and high waisted trousers...it all reminds me of...what, the 1920s and 30s? The 1880s? The 1940s and 50s? Yes to all of it, as evidenced below. Armani is simply a master.


https://www.armani.com/

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